A friend of mine has a 1917 Touring that is experiencing some engine trouble. One of the areas we wanted to check were the spark plugs. Unfortunately, they are "frozen" to the head and will not give when we try to get them out.
We are going to soak the base of the plug with PB Blaster and let them soak overnight and try again tomorrow. Hopefully it will get into the head and allow some "give" on the threads.
Any other ideas for getting the plugs out? We do not want to cause other problems by getting overly aggressive with them and breaking something.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Mike Hanson & Thomas Broadhead
Attached is a picture of the engine with the plugs.
If you can start the engine and warm it up the plugs will come right out I bet.
Can you start the engine ? Getting the engine up to "operating" temperature should help in removing the plugs as in theory, metal expands as in the parent cylinder head metal. Don't be afraid of using a LONG wrench or deep socket with breaker bar - tapered pipe threads can go in tight !
Soak, then 6pt deep socket and breaker bar and ease out. It's pipe thread and should loosen up immediately after broken loose. Best, jb
Yes. Soak it for a day and get some heat in there
I use the 50/50 acetone ATF mix but PB blaster is OK.
Fill about 1/4 inch deep around the spark plugs
Some advice regarding preventative maintenance:
See that rust in the head around the spark plugs?
Always wipe the water out of the spark plug wells of your Model T after you wash it or after it has been driven in the rain.
Likewise, open the side lamps and wipe them out.
When I have this problem with plugs or bolts. I use a socket and bar and use a hammer to tap the end of the bar but not heavy hits. Never a strong steady pull. Or if you have a impact wrench that you can adjust the power to a light rattling, try that. No violent actions.
Like James, Fred & Steve said above. Let 'em soak. A deep six point is an absolute must. Back & forth "jiggeling" might help. As stated pipe thread is tapered so the second it breaks loose a bit it'll come out. I'd also consider some type of high temp lube like Never Sieze when going back in. I'm not adverse to a heat/quick cool cycle either. I'd heat the plug base (propane torch) then a quick cool with a wet rag. The shock might to the trick.
I have used wax (from a candle) slightly heat the base of the plug and run some wax around the threads it will find its way down the threads. Let sit until it cools then reheat slightly just enough to melt the wax and apply the six point. David
rusted in place pour hot water in the dip water made the rust water will soften it up once loose dry out water and remove. water hotter the better
Penetrant and four foot cheater pipe on the socket handle.
Same thing here on no.3 plug in my 24. I got a breakover bar and socket with WD-40 with a 4ft 1" pipe. Came out fine with a litter urging.
So - did you get them removed, Mike ?
ATF and acetone mixed 50/50 can't be beat along with the heat, but I think the ATF and acetone works a little better if you shake it up if it has been setting around for awhile
Also put the ATF and acetone in a closed container because I think the acetone will avaporate
In addition to the tips mentioned above, I've had success at times, with rusted bolts, by dousing the area in penetrating oil then rocking the bolt back and forth quickly.
Every little microscopic turn introduces some oil into the threads and you soon get bigger and bigger turns.
It doesn't work all the time....but sometimes it does.