I haven't been around the world in a plane or settled revolutions in Spain, but like Bunny Berigan I can't get started. On Saturday I got the engine back in the car and started it up. I shut it off and started it again. It started easily on the first or second pull. I even started it on MAG a couple of times. I let it run to warm up so I could retorque the head bolts, and shut it off. Yesterday I was going to take the car out and drive it to see if it needed any band adjustment. I don't know what I did to the thing after running it on Saturday, but it steadfastly refuses to run again. I've checked and adjusted everything I can think of, and all I've accomplished is a rising level of irritation. Four pulls to prime and then flipping the switch to BAT should make for an instant start, but here's what happens. The number of pulls on choke makes no apparent difference.
Sure looks / sounds like it only gets gas mixture when you choke it, then nothing flows after it burns what got pulled in during choking.
You said in your blog that you were going to check the fuel system for contamination, I assume it all checked out clean?
Fuel shutoff valves open at the sediment bulb and the carb? Mixture needle on the carb not closed?
Vent hole in the gas cap open? Enough gas in the tank?
If all that checks out, take the bowl off the carb and make sure that the float is free to drop and that the needle drops freely and isn't sticking in its seat.
Try 2 pulls on prime. This engine may flood easier. Is there a good hot spark at each plug?
(I never have to use more than 2 on my T)
You just need a bigger hammer.
What Mark said...no gas... (in the combustion chambers)
Try rattling a wrench along side of the carb body/bowl. You may have a stuck float?
Take the over off of the coil box and try. The metal top CAN give sneaky problems. If the coil box cover is a little misaligned it should not completely silence the engine but could cause mis-firing.
Starting fluid. That'll tell u if fuel is getting into the combustion chamber
Did you turn the gas back on?
Open the throttle 1/3; set the spray needle at 1.5 turn open; set the ignition lever half way down; prime the engine 4 or 5 pulls; set the contact on and bring the ignition lever slow up.
You maybe know all this.
I think the carburetor setting is just too lean.
This the way I do it with the fresh rebuild 1914 runabout and it always start right up.
I have a 1915 and it has a different starting system than my other two. Jack left rear wheel up, open mixture one quarter turn, prime four times, set timer all the way up and gas one third down. Turn key to battery and crank one time. BINGO. When warm, one or two quarter turns and it starts without the rear wheel up.
Steve we tend to forget what we know about T's when a problem hits. Take your time & go back to basics. Check for spark then get into the fuel system. Something has changed from the day before. It is probably simple. 4 pulls with the choke seems excessive. In fact if you didn't see fuel dripping out of the Carb air inlet after that I'd be a bit surprised. Systematic checking pays off.
4 pulls with the key off and choke pulled yields an instant start on all four of my T's when cold. No choke is needed when the engines are warm.
It's not the same as using a starter. I agree, likely Steve does not have fuel in the carb bowl for whatever reason, or the main jet is plugged, or adjusted too far closed.
I'm itchin' for a report back Steve.
My brain says open the throttle and the mixer a bit more and try again.
At least you got some cardio in today. ;-)
That happened to me recently and the gas tank was empty? I pulled it through 4 cranks with choke and it would start and then die.
Mystery solved, sort of. I just put on another carburetor and started right up. Now I need to dig into the one that wasn't working and see what's the problem with it.
Sometimes you have to diagnose the problem AFTER you fix it;). We will be waiting with baited breath.
You been eating worms again? ;o)
Hopefully not and you have bated breath. I'm here to help. Bill
Glad to hear you found the source of the problem, Steve. Please let us know what if anything you find in the misbehaving carburetor.
By the way, any update on the "soft" lifter that had worn down in a short time on the last build? Was the camshaft OK? Did you replace all of the lifters, or just the worn one?
Mystery solved, or at least cured. I took all the plugs out of the offending carburetor, stuck the guitar string in the passages, and blew it all out. When I reassembled the carburetor and reinstalled it the car started right up.
I have two possible reasons for the trouble. One is just some bit of debris finding its way to the carburetor and blocking the passage.
The other possibility is that this plug somehow got turned in too far and was blocking the passage. Perhaps just from engine vibration. I made the threads too far into the hole, allowing it to turn in too far. When I put it back in I applied a little dab of sealant so it should stay put where it belongs.
Mark, this is the engine that had the bad lifter, and I just got it back in the car. When Bob found out about the defective part he sent a whole new set. I hope that the failure of an individual lifter is rare enough that I won't have to deal with another. Happily, the cam was undamaged and is back doing its job.
Bill. You got me.
I did wonder about the spelling but was too lazy to check.
Steve, this is one of the reasons I like your posts. You always complete the post with a follow-up on what was done for the fix and cure.
With the car now starting normally, I added a little to the video.
Glad to hear its back on the road Steve. Really enjoy the videos.