Started doing some much needed repair on my radiator. One thing lead to another and decided to repaint engine and will do the firewall also. Derusting Exhaust manifold today,trying out the electrolysis method. Funny how one thing leads to another on these velocipedes .
As usual, I have not worked on any of my own T's at all so far this month. Too busy working on everybody else's stuff. I did drive my TT dump truck to our local club's crab feed on Saturday. I always haul away the trash from the event because if we put it in the dumpster it drives the local cats and raccoons crazy. We did do some important model T stuff for others the last couple of days. Robert Weitzel and I walked a member of the newest generation of T guys through a Ruckstell setup. We went through cleaning, measuring and selecting good parts, repairing ones that weren't, setting end play in the differential and Ruckstell planetary assemblies, setting up the driveshaft bearings and end play, and finally ring & pinion mesh. Our student was amazed at the complications involved in the project, even though it went more smoothly than most of them. He has not yet driven a model T but if we keep it up he will have his speedster buildup on the road with us this season. It's great to share our love of these machines with new people and keep them alive. For that, my own cars can wait.
I just finished the rebuild of five Heinze coils and two magneto rings.
I pulled my coil box out to paint. I was going to rebuild it but it looks grate. So I'll clean up the contacts and hope for the best.
Eric B. Martynn Vowell and I helped get newbie DerrickPang on the road and now he drives that thing all over the place and bought another rest. project. Robert G. I may repaint ny box also. Clean it up and see.
Pulled manifold out of electric soup and sprayed with a clear manifold coating. pics tomorrow.
Great news George. Glad we were able to meet you guys and help out.
maybe it was late or maybe I'm just a bone head. Look at the way I spelled great. Oh boy! What was I thinking?
Break in the weather here in ATL. Putting a few coats of shellac on my WWI project getting ready for primer and paint, hopefully this weekend. Then reassembly can begin.
Re-lined the bands, ready to put the "lid" back on.
spayed some clear manifold coating on, supposed to be semigloss but still a bit shiny, might be ok when some hot exhaust gases warm it up. still looks better than what I started with.
Just because your box "looks great" doesn't mean it is. The wood develops carbon traces between the plies, so you end up with invisible high-voltage shorts. If you plan on driving it much, I would go with the Fun Projects "plastic" wood for the coil box.
Thanks David. I bought the fun projects wood.
I finished rear axle rebuild. Installed recore radiator. Installed rear axle tonight.lubed and oiled chassis. Started engine for ten minutes then retorked manifold bolts from freeze plug install. Cut a round piece of white aluminum and installed behind tail light lense . Much brighter now. Also keeps lense from rattling. Put in gear lube tomorrow and test drive and recheck wheel nuts.
Wow Dallas, you've been busy! Good luck with the test drive tomorrow.
Bought some parts from langs. Rebuilt carb that came out great and a set of factory champion x repop plugs and gaskets,gonna detail under the hood some more and swap manifolds and carb again this weekend. Or that is the plan. Tim Tim
It was 61 here today and mid 50s to low 60s for next 7 days!!! T time. Mark it will be a long drive tomorrow.
Drove the roadster to town for shopping today and stopped at AC Glass to pick up my new headlight lenses.
Correct for 1915.
She has a new twinkle in her eye. Very nice Steve.
Drive safe and often
With the return of some un-seasonal warm weather for February, I sanded and primed the firewall.
Shoot some paint tomorrow. It's not show perfect but to stop rust on a daily driver it'll work fine for me.
Sanding, staining, sanding, varnishing, sanding, varnishing, sanding etc.....It took me a week. I'm no woodworker, that's for sure.
Rob, good job Mate !! Great color.
I know it SHOULD be "Cherry", but the colour of the stain is Jarrah/Redgum and is about the only red-ish colour I could get here in my little town. But I like it.....lots.
Finished up my restoring the headlights for my 1913
George's use of aluminum foil for masking is a great idea, you can crumple it around to fit odd shapes and it holds its shape and stays in place without having to use tape.
68 degrees here in Michigan today, so I spent the afternoon installing the engine in my '14 Touring. I wasn't planning on doing that until the weather broke (usually April sometime) but got really lucky with this nice stretch of weather and thought why not? I sure wish I had one of those flat, angled type of long handled tools they show in the T repair book for holding the end of the u-joint in place while struggling with the engine! Sure would have made my day a little easier!
Like others, I took advantage of the great weather---mid 40's today here in upstate NY. I am desperately trying to finally get my '25 Canadian cut off touring / pickup on the road after owning for 11 years now. It seems like they had 65% of a vehicle and put bits and pieces together to make it drive-able. What I have discovered is a lot of worn out and unsafe stuff over the years that I have been sloooowwwlly working on in that time.
The rear end is shot, and I know it, I am patching what I have with used parts just to get it going. To that end today, I finished up installing new neoprene inner axle seals due to the fact there were none in the rear when I got things apart. I also finished up the install of some used outer sleeves I had because the originals were wore thin and cracked in half. Install new outer seal cup and felt as I also had them lingering around and made a set of axle shims. The best one I really had to laugh at, was they tried to use a front shackle in the rear spring on one side and just jammed a couple nuts on it. I found an equally well used rear shackle with retainer plate and installed that instead---its all well worn, but at least its the right parts in place now.
Among other things I had noticed inspecting things, they installed a gasket between the 4th main and drive tube ball retainer. Obviously that will cause issues and is totally wrong so I cut it out, lubed the ball and u-joint and put it all back together. I tightened all the pan bolts as I found some loose, tightened the inspection cover. I adjusted the brake rods which are equally messed up as everything else is, put in 4 quarts of fresh oil and found the top petcock clogged up, so I cleared that out too. The last thing I did was disassemble the petcock on the carb to lube it with some EZ Turn fuel lube as it was stuck hard.
Previous work over the years is a complete new fuel system, redid the entire front axle and steering linkage, new wiring harness with Anderson timer, and changing A LOT of incorrect hardware and some parts.
Hoping with a little more work tomorrow, I can get it fired up (first time in 5 years) for a real test drive---the first since I've owned it.
The next major thing is to get a new to me rear spring as the eyelets are severely worn in mine and install the fully rebuilt rear axle we did as a club project several years back after it warms up enough to paint it. Geez, what a basket case I own.
Well, I did get the T fired up as I noted yesterday....kind of surprised no one has posted since then. It was a smoky experience, but after a few times of running and stopping and restarting, it cleared right out.
I have (of course) several issues. I noted some leaks around two head bolts. I figured what harm to torque them down. I found out what harm as a few just started to let go. Yup, I am going to have to pull the head and do some heli-coiling. Drats. The other thing I noticed is it makes a hell of a racket (I was not as experienced with T's before to note this as bad). I would like to believe it is the cast iron pistons, but I really get the feeling it is rods, and I will probably find the worst with the babbitt based on other things I have found owning this vehicle. But I digress.
I had a heck of a time getting fuel to flow today. I have a different aftermarket sediment bowl, and for whatever reason there must have been some crap in the shut off, even though the tank is new. I finally got it all sorted out, and without much effort, it fired right up, first time in 5 years.
All there is left to do is everything else. The funny part of all this, is I think my doodlebug that is a bunch of leftovers seems to be in much better shape I suppose I could always swap engines........
I almost forgot the obligatory video:
(Message edited by Chad_Marchees on February 19, 2017)
try that again:
Scraped off old paint and crud from a demountable clincher rear wheel. Using favorite tool, shards of plate glass. Makes a fine scraper, you snap off pieces to get nice curve shapes to scrape. But, be sure to have nice thick gloves!
Took a couple of hours, but done by lunch time!
Then a few passes with 150 grit sandpaper, spokes, metal felloe and rim too.
Then mask some, and paint up the metal. Spokes will get a coat of varnish.
Got the Ruckstell done and ready for final assembly. Also have the Tudor motor ready to come out.
Yesterday I went down to Santee to clean up an old friends garage of all Model T stuff. He passed over a year ago and it's time now to sell the family home. Well I filled the back of the truck with fenders, running boards, top irons, engine parts, a 1916 engine and a later block. There is still lots of A stuff left and I called several A friends to give them a heads up.
Today I emptied the truck and started to put it in the Classified.
Testing my patients, sanding rod caps and adding shims to get my rods tighter as they were quite loose and to give me future adjustments later. There were no shims, and no evidence the caps had been messed with, but there was a wire similar to mechanics wire through the cotter key holes.
I have been putting the caps on my belt sander, adding a few shims back in and testing the fit by feel (I have many years of experience with engines) and by plastigage. However so far I have almost three hours in and I'm just starting the second cap.
Upon starting the car last week, I felt the bottom end noises needed to be dealt with. Getting real close to going for the first real drive, but this weekends weather doesn't look promising.
Since it was just another mid 70's day in February, I put the top down on Betsy, my 1924 cut-off pickup and drove to Otto, a small town north of Hillsboro on old Hwy 21. Stopped at a small cafe and got a bacon bleu cheese burger and some home made potato chips, then drove home.
Mea Culpa Steve Jelf, but like Dan Treace, I'm varnishing my new Stutzman wheels for the front of my '20. Second coat went on today. Will be on hold for remaining work due to weather getting colder. Can't do this in the house as the boss complains of the odor.
Removed the turtle deck for R&R . . .
Cleaned, chipped and scaled loose paint and rust, applied a coat of POR-15
. . . and removed rotted wood from the turtle deck
Last week I turned on my gas valve. I was planning to drive the car. Gas poured out all over the floor from the carburetor. I took it apart and found the float full of gas. I called Chaffin's and they had a float for a NH. It came yesterday and I installed it today. Took the car out for a drive and left the gas valve open for a couple hours. No drip. I shut the valve as I usually do.
Very good service and so far it works fine.
Backed the runabout out of the garage so it could enjoy today's 60 degree sunshine!
------------ Warning, OT --------------
Nothing, but I did something with my 1971 Plymouth GTX that folks might get a kick out of.
One of my mufflers has a broken baffle, makes a terrible rattling sound at Idle. Doesn't rattle while driving, I assume the exhaust pressure holds it in place.
I got some strong ferrite magnets and stuck them on the bottoms of both mufflers to try and hold the broken baffle to the bottom of the muffler so that it can't rattle.
Worked like a charm, no more rattle!
Don't try those new "rare earth" magnets for this, they lose their magnetism at just over 500 degrees F, whereas ferrite magnets are good to over 1000 degrees F.
I started loading my trailer today for Chickasha see you all there
Painted my block to day and other little bits and pieces.
Still testing my patients taking up the rods. Five hours in and I have the first three done. Now just down to that pesky 4th rod in a 3 dip pan. I am almost amazed the babbitt has been decent on these for as loose as they have been.
I can feel that first test drive coming real soon.
Went to Ron's to visit my motor this week. Should be ready to pick up in the next 10 days or so. Industrial dove grey with red accents pretty much matches the way it came to me. It was quite a relief that I did't have to go shopping for another block as all the water vessel cracks were repairable. No other surprises in the engine or transmission.
Dating the car link
(Message edited by jesselashcraft on February 24, 2017)
Working my way from a pile of parts to assembling an actual car. Started with a complete 1923 runabout in November and within a couple of weeks had it all apart. Now I'm on the way back.
Blasted the top bows for my 23 touring. 65degrees
and sunny. Just finished coating them with Master Series black 2 part . Tom
Looking forward to tomorrow when I can finish up my SURE STOP Disc Brake installation and take Gracie for a test ride.
It was in the seventies in Knoxville so I decided to get the hack started and go for a ride. Started right up and ran great. Drove for about 20 miles. Need to fix oil leak around Bendix. Other than that I am ready to go.
started repairing fender for TT. Piece missing. Took another fender that was smashed and cut the piece from that. Also salveged clamp for fender iron.
Spent over an hour and a half making a "screwdriver" for the Holley carb - used it for 30 seconds, probably won't ever need it again . . .
Weighed my speedster project today. 900 lbs.
Added a super taillight
Got the Ruckstell all assembled and to install.
Restoring a 1909 steering column to sell at Chickasha.
Put a buying list together for wiring and misc. gaskets to get the '26 Coupe running this spring. I am sure the number of items needed will double by the time I order the parts.
Man, I worked like a dog today and still didn't get done with the installation of my SURE STOP Brake kit. All I lack though is plumbing and a bleed. Hope to be done in a couple more hours. Don't let anybody tell you it's an 8 hour job!!
Cleaned up a damaged non-Stewart speedometer flex shaft that I will use on my 1911. I need both ends for it. Does anybody have any original brass ends? I would rather use original than re-pops.
: ^ )
Weather cleared up in SoCal so I drove Carl (1911 touring) to work yesterday, 30 mile round trip. All went well except my Garmin Nuvi GPS died a mile after I left so I had to gauge my speed.
People at worked like the car though, Carl's now back in slumber land.
I started packing up for Chickasha today
I worked on my TT, had a miss and on occasion a dead cylinder. Cleaned the timer and put in new plugs, looked a little rich, so I leaned it out just a bit. Then I noticed one of my coils had vibrated a little out of position, my mag box is pretty beat up. Once I pushed the coil back down in, the TT smoothed right out. I still have a lot to learn - including - on the spark plugs, how do you guys tighten the little brass tops ? by fingers ? can you get them tight enough that way ? I have been using a wrench, but I am deforming them and then today I did this :-(
Tom: Those small brass nuts on the top of the spark plugs must tightened while the motor is running to make sure they are tight. Then shut the motor off and check them again!
Tom I am just kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!! Keep your fingers way from the plugs or you will sure regret it as they BBBBBIIIITTTTTEEEE hard. I know by accident.
I tighten them thumb tight and the test them with a pair of plyers--GENTLEY!
Finally completed my project except varnishing the box and floorboard, It's been too wet and cold.
Closing out the month, I have done as much as I could with limited time. This past week / weekend I adjusted all of my rods, from never having been done best I could tell. That required sanding caps until I could add a few shims back in for future adjustments. I also built a nifty little plate to help cover the giant hole in the pan to aid in adjusting #4 in the 3 dip pan.
Yesterday I finished up installing an outside oiler using the bendix cover as the pickup point. I had not run the truck in a week and was amazed at the amount of oil still in the cover. I need to get a new set of screws for the cover however, the slots on the originals are toast.
Tom, regarding tightening the nuts on the spark plugs - I believe that the Ford owner's manual tells you to tighten them finger tight, then give the spark plug cable terminal end a little twist to get it just a little tighter - no need for a wrench or pliers.
Likewise, to loosen, give the cable terminal end a little twist, then finish loosening by hand.
thanks guys, good one Bill :-)
Painted and coated a few tidbits .
Blued and coated the plugs.
How did you blue the spark plugs? They look great!
I have not managed to do anything productive with the complete car, but closed out the month by reattaching the rear end and then painting the 1921 or so frame/farm wagon that I got last August.
Installed McLaren wheels with Kelsey rims.
Made drilling fixtures for #6 flat washers to repair compressed wood at stand off on coils.
I pulled the dashboard out in the Touring car as long as I had to drop the gas tank in the cowl. Tumbled and cleaned the gas tank out to get rid of the rust, then coated with gas tank sealer. Also, took the dash out to a welder to get the "extra" holes in the dash filled. I'll abrasive blast all the paint and rust off it, prime, and repaint this weekend.
Hal, nice. I can't even see the air conditioner installation on that car! I will watch for you on the road.
Finished rebuilding my rear. Changed up a few things along the way.
Refurbishing components for TT. Just finished crusty low hood I got from Mark Osterman when he replaced his. Equally crusty hood shelves are next (also from Mark), then rear wheels (which were a very lucky find - solid and tight spokes):
Maybe it's just me, but those tires look huge. What size are they?
Henry - they are huge! One is 9.00x20 and the other is 11.00 x20. Wheels came together and have the same red paint - so whatever was running around with these on it was lopsided as hell. Tires are petrified - rock solid. Will cut them off the rims with the angle grinder - my neighbors LOVE it when I do that!!
Ron, if you can break the bead on those tyres and get the lock ring off, the whole tyre/tube/flap assembly will come off as a unit. That is the beauty of split rims.
Perhaps the neighbours will help! Otherwise, if you must cut them, drill a starting hole and use a jig saw or sawzall. That ought to keep the peace.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Allan - you're a lot luckier than I've ever been. Have demounted at least 10 rear split rims with ancient (read petrified) over the years and have never had one come off the rim without having to cut the tire and peel it from the rim. In every case the rubber was fused to the steel.
Started taking the vaporizer of the 27 roadster last night to swap to the Wilmo manifold and NH carb. Got the carb back from langs and buddy it looks new again or better than new their carb guy does beautiful work. Tim