Getting mentally prepared to remove engine. From everything I've read, I guess I should open up the rear to check for those dreaded Babbitt washers? I don't know if it was ever changed. Now, there is no noise or side to side play. Guess I should check. Right??
Considering the inconvenience and possible danger posed by a failure, you probably should.
As Mama used to tell me "An ounce of prevention..." or my favorite quote from Dad "If you don't have the time to do it right,When are you going to find the time to do it over?" I will be doing the same thing to mine in about 6 months.
Wait! I'm confused, are you saying when the Babbitt Washers wear out you have no side to side play? I would have thought the opposite, but I'm a NEWB. Now I'm concerned with my rear axle.
Tom you're correct. When they wear, you'll get side to side play. Regardless, as most of us have learned, (or learnt!), about the first thing you do when you get a T is to open up the rear end and check it out. Like G.R. said, an ounce of prevention. It's not a hard job. Last year I took Pete's, my '12 Comm. Roadster P/U, rear end apart mainly to replace a leaking gasket. Being a '12, I pretty much knew it already had the bronze thrust washers, which it did. But what I DIDN'T know of course, was the inside bearing sleeve was cracked and in imminent danger of literally falling apart, and who knows what kind of trouble that could've caused. Moral of the story is, open it up and check it out. I've done all mine but the '13 so far, was told it was fully rebuilt, so for now I'm okay with that.
I think he's saying that even though there's no noise or side play he should check anyway. That's right. If you don't know what's in there, you'd better look.
Another while you're at it if you have the engine out is a magnet charge.
Is it a difficult job to change the thrust washers? I plan on getting the axle repair book.
With Babbitt thrust washers, it's not the WEAR. It's the sudden crumbling into chunks. It's kinda like now you see 'em, now you don't. One minute they're fine and keeping everything spaced like it's supposed to be. The next minute, the thrust washer is in several pieces being thrown around inside the housing and the axle is free to move outward.
It takes time, but I wouldn't call it difficult. Just follow the book. I do have one quibble with it. Glen is impartial on whether to use the Fun Projects pinion bearing or go stock. I'm not impartial. I'll go with FP every time.
Steve, do you have any other videos of your rear axle buildup besides your "home stretch" one?
Talked me into it.
Jonathon, Steves right on the money. Plus, you will get a chance to evaluate the condition of your ring and pinion and other critical components of the rear end.
My concern is there is no side to side play, but I do have a leak from the differential. Believe whom ever rebuilt this axle didn't get the gasket in properly as a piece is sticking out. My problem is I've been unable to break free the hubs from the axle. Hoping when the weather warms up I can get car running and run it around the block so to loosen up those stubborn hubs. Then I can fix the leak and check the rest of the axle.
Here's a parts list I made up when I did mine. Prices may be a bit out of date.
Jonathon, I'm glad Steve talked you into it or else I'd be BEGGING you and Tom D to do it. I put less than 10 miles on my "rebuilt" axle and the babbitt thrust washers started to shred themselves..
See my "Rear axle repairs; variations of a common theme. Duane's version." thread. Remember we like pictures for the pretty and also the carnage inside these rear axles.
I can't remember Ignacio's thread title for his early rear axle. "How's my hub look" I think. :-)
The worst part in my eyes is getting the axle out from under the car and that ain't bad at all. I just hate jack stands and such. :-)
After that it's gravy to at least check the condition of the parts. Pull the wheels and keys, the drive-shaft and then split it open.
Glen stopped by on Dallas' "Rear axle rebuild? Uh Oh!!!" thread to comment on questions I was asking about the drive-shaft end play and he suggests also using the front drive-shaft bushing according to the book to be certain the shaft never moves towards the rear. I think he called it extra insurance. Darn good advice since I'll be using the fun projects kit on mine right shortly. I also liked Dallas' notions about keeping things in place on the fun projects kit.
Gary, that's a nice parts list! If you don't mind, I'd like to borrow it. :-)
Jonathon, I just went through a full axle and driveshaft rebuild. It may seem intimidating, but it is really straight forward. As you mentioned earlier, get the club axle book. You might get the Model T Ford Service book as well if you don't have it already. Familiarize yourself with the various steps and procedures, you'll do just fine.
There are plenty of members here on the forum that will help you with every step. Please keep us posted.
Jonathon, like your engine pull, let me know when your doing your axle. I'll come down to Forks and help, then when I go to do mine you can come up to Saylorsburg to help me. Again my biggest issue is breaking the hubs free of that taper.
Will do Tom.
Steve, I'm not impartial. In fact we make our own replacement modern Drive Shaft bearing assemblies. The important thing is to get the pinion properly centered on the Ring Gear. Then adjust the Ring Gear and Pinion clearance. The only thing I do not like about the modern bearing is the lock ring. You cannot trust it to stay locked in place. So we first set it in place and lock it, then adjust the clearance between the U-Joint and Drive shaft Bushing just like you normally would do. This insures that the Drive Shaft end play will always stay correct even if the lock Ring comes loose.