Alternator for 1914 touring

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Alternator for 1914 touring
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rfbuff on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 07:39 am:

Plan to put external alternator on 1914. I have a water pump on the engine. I can buy a external alternator kit from langs will it interfear with the water pump on the car


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 08:30 am:

I'd call Steve at Langs & ask him.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rfbuff on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 12:08 pm:

Seems all the suppliers are out. Does anyone know what brand/year the alternator was that was being used in the kits. If anyone has one they'd like to sell, let me know.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 12:46 pm:

Might as well install a disturbuter at the same time....Sorry couldn't help it


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 01:09 pm:

Performance T parts was making them. The owner passed away several years ago. There will not be any more from the Reeders.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Rogers - South of the Adirondacks on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 01:27 pm:

Do a full "upgrade".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Boyd on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 07:36 pm:

You can use what is called a "10SI" or "12SI" design which was used by GM from the mid '70's to the mid '90's. Look on the internet for great descriptions of them. They are available in one-wire and three-wire versions on Amazon or Ebay. I prefer the three-wire version as the one wire version has a 50 milliamp draw when the car is at rest and will run down the battery. These alternators have internally regulated 63 to 95 amp output, plenty to handle headlights and recharging the battery. All the auto stores have rebuilts from Mexico and, for years, China has made knock offs of the original Delco Remy design. You used to be able to find cores or useable alternators at junk yards but this is getting more difficult. You might have to pay a core charge on the rebuilt. You can pretty easily cut a bracket from 1/2 inch 6061 aluminum plate, shaped roughly like a question mark, which attaches to the two bolts holding the water outlet near the radiator. The shape of the bracket can be made to allow for the water pump. You need to order a six groove pulley to replace the V-belt pulley and then purchase a correctly sized "flat" belt to drive everything. This is very brief, but maybe enough information to get it done.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Moorehead on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 09:06 pm:

Contact Birdhaven. The are doing the alternators that Texas T used to sell. There is a complete kit with belts, replacement pulley, etc. I have had one for 15 years. It is one wire. I added a 25 amp relay to stop the dead battery issue suggested above.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 10:12 pm:

I would consider changing to a V belt drive if you get an alternator that puts out more than 35 amps.
I have converted several MGB cars and a TR3 to around 90 amp GM alternators and if the battery gets a bit low the V belt will scream when charging at full rate.
A 90 or 100 amp alternator really needs a double V belt drive, or run it off the timing gear and risk the alternator over heating problem.
An easy one to mount to most engines is a '95 Saturn 4 cylinder alternator.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker, Ramona, CA on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 12:30 am:

I put a water pump and an alternator on the left side of a 1913 speedster motor. I had to install an idler pulley to get half a turn on rack of the pulleys. Nothing too difficult and the system has worked well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 12:40 am:

Rfbuff,

I am just willing to help but first two question:
Why you need an alternator on the 1914??
Why is there a water pump on the engine?

Fun Project, John Reagan, is offering a well working device for charging a battery from the magneto. It is easy to install and for me it is working fine. You just need a good working magneto.

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 12:47 am:

HSBCK 1 is the number.

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 01:31 am:

This may give you an idea or two. I run everything with a 3 groove serpentine belt. I tightened the belt just tight enough so nothing slips, and that isn't all that tight. You do not need a "v" belt. I've been running this set up for a number of years now. That back side idler is a bearing on a shoulder bolt. The belt is slowly wearing grooves in the fan pulley,


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 01:34 am:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Gumbinger, Kenosha, WI on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 01:07 pm:

Hal, That sure is some setup. Is that on your '25 Fordor?

Just wondering...

Best wishes to you and Vonnie,

Keith (and Carol too)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 02:02 pm:

Keith, Sure is. AC works fine...only drawback is the many air leaks from doors and windows. The AC is real cold. The alternator is as much drag on the engine as the compressor. There is only a slight drop in engine RPM when I turn on the AC and the belt doesn't slip. The Alt. is a rebuilt Nissan (I don't remember the output) and the compressor is what we used on the GEO Metro aftermarket air conditioners. Cheers and Ditto to U and Carol.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Gumbinger, Kenosha, WI on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 02:45 pm:

Hal, a question. Since you have the alternator on the left side of the engine, what, if anything, do you have where the generator was mounted behind the oil filler cap? Just wondering...

Thanks, Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 08:52 pm:

I have an oil pump for inserted mains with an A crank. Oil PSI stays right at 40PSI. Also have a fat intake, a 280 cam and a Z head. I also have an electric oil pump that I use to establish oil pressure before I start the engine.

Would love to see u guys again!!


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