So the revival of the barn car '24 Touring that I bought from John May is going well.
After I got it running for a second, I quickly shut it down and am now going through the vital systems to make sure all is well before I reassemble everything while adding a few new bits (Anco timer, exhaust, transmission bands, new/used head, steering components, gaskets, linkages, carb rebuild, fan bearing, clutch parts, glass, etc)
Since I'm running a new timer, I figured why not make the whole ignition system new (John already threw in new plugs and plug wires) and replace the coils with rebuilt ones from Brent Mize.
So....the ultimate newb question....HOW DO THE COILS COME OUT OF THE COIL BOX?
Do they just slide out? Do you have to disconnect something?
The old ones aren't budging. Of course, they've been in there since AT LEAST 1969.....and probably a lot longer than that based on the fact that this car was parked in '69 after being well used for a long time.
So....yeah....I've rebuilt a small block Ford in my garage, done a body off resto on a '54 Ford.....but can't get the coils out of a Model T.
Don't laugh (too hard).
I seriously don't like the inability to edit posts on this forum.
His name is John Mays (not May).
(I need to ask him if Otis sold on eBay)
My 10 year old replacing the cracked head with a used one donated to the project.
Don, they should just slide up and out. Get a grip on the nuts on either side of the that hold the points on and pull up. Sometimes a couple pair of pliers can facilitate the removal.
They just pull up and then need to be tilted towards you a bit on the later cars. They can be a real tight fit sometimes and there isn't much to grab. I try to grab the two posts the points are mounted on between my thumb and index finger and jiggle the coil front to back a bit as I pull up on the coil.
I've worked on some tough ones. While doing what Mike said, see if you can rock the coils back and forth as you pull up. It might help to spray WD40 around the wood as well. The coilbox will need a clean up anyway.
Val types faster than me.
Don, you CAN edit your post from your user profile if no one has posted after you.
I believe he posted they are keeping Otis
(Message edited by vwgary on February 17, 2017)
(Message edited by vwgary on February 17, 2017)
Good to know...thanks Gary.
On the 24, the top of the coil box is quite close to the cowl. You might need to remove the coil box the first time you remove the coils so that you can pull straight up on them. They just slide into the box with spring contacts along the front and bottom, but they can become quite tight and sometimes s stick or cardboard is wedged in behind the coils to keep them in place.
Mine were stuck as well. since I was having them rebuilt I slipped a small screwdriver under the back of the points where the two nuts are and pulled up. I was also told that you can put a light bulb under the box for some time to dry and shrink the wood if they are swollen like mine were. Good luck I'm new at this too.
This car sat in a dry part of Texas all those years and is now in the humidity capitol of the US (the Houston area) so they may well be swollen.
You can edit if you do it within a few minutes. If you wait too long the editing opportunity expires.
I guess sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do, but prying on the points can EASILY put them out of adjustment.
Hal, that's the first thing I thought of too. When it comes to coils, I avoid prying on anything. Grabbing the posts and pulling up should do the trick. If the coils are like those in my '22, they have to be carefully tipped toward the back to avoid hanging up on the firewall.
I agree, but I was sending them out for a rebuild anyway. I would never pry on them if hey weren't going to be replaced.
Don if I read your post right you are going to have them redone. Correct?
Robert, I understand your reasoning. The idea of the light bulb is an interesting.
While you have the coils out, rebuild the coil box with the appropriate waterproof kit listed on this page. New contacts are available, if needed, but good originals work very well. http://www.funprojects.com/search.aspx?querystr=coil%20box&querytype=all
On my 1916 - without the middle brace in the coilbox - I find taking out the middle coil first makes it much easier to get out the end coils. Oh, and only grab them by something that does not move.
Thanks for the great responses.
Robert, I just bought a whole separate, freshly rebuilt set from The Coil Doctor.
I'll install those and have these old ones as well. When I have some time, I want to try my hand at rebuilding them. Looks like fun.
After work today, I managed to switch out the coils.
I jiggled them back and forth endlessly until they came out. Here's a photo of the new ones installed.
For what it's worth...the old ones looked terrible. I can't believe I got the car started with them. I'm looking for a coil box lid if anyone has one.
And....I also got my new glass installed.
Remove the coils and rub a block of paraffin on three sides.
They will be much easier to install/replace.
Will do Ron....thanks.
I learned the lightbulb idea for drying it out from this forum. The Coil Dr. is working on mine and I hope to get them back soon.
Don, I'm right there with you on two of my coil boxes.
Ron, I've used candles to lube the darndest things like doors and windows. Why not some coils... :-)
I now have new coils, plugs, plug wires and will soon have a new timer.
As soon as I get the car fired up again, I'll check the mag.
I'm excited to see what the old girl sounds like with an entirely reworked ignition system.
She's come a long way since John pulled her out of a barn in November.
The transformation will be pretty cool when I have her all back together....with an interior....and running again.