I prefer bronze perch and spring bushings because I'd rather wear out the bushings than the hangers. But there's another reason.
Getting the old steel bushings out is usually an absolute nightmare. Yes, I know a hacksaw and a die grinder can help, but it's never easy.
Heat the steel bushing up some. let it cool off and they will come out most every time.
As John said. Heat the ID of the bushing red hot and let it cool, slowly. The heat will break down the rust and by being red hot the bushing will shrink when it cools. Try it, you'll like it. Dave
I always thought Ford went to steel bushings in later years because the brass was wearing the steel parts out faster. The brass, being softer, held shavings that wore on the steel and not the brass. And besides that, steel was probably cheaper. Kind of a thrifty move on Ford's part.
Its amazing how the rust that's on the inside of the two surfaces whether its T spring perches and the steel bushings or any thing that's similar can seize up the parts.
The first real job I had where I was helping install and take apart large water pumps, air compressors and any thing mechanical, the older and a lot smarter mechanics than myself used that trick.
The reason rusted parts get so tight is that rust takes up more volume than the iron that it came from. If the rust is confined and can't flake off, then it jams the two parts together.
Rust never sleeps!
John and Dave are on the mark. Heat and a little penetrant did the trick.
Steve, which car are these perches for? I thought you had already gone through all the bushings on the touring and roadster.
What other bushing would work in that application?
Isn't bronze too soft?
This job is so much easier with a hydraulic press!
You can apply much more force in a much more controlled manner.
Folks poo-poo the Harbor Freight cheapies, but I have had good service from mine for 30 years.
Hal, bronze is stout enough for spindle bushings, so I figure it's probably OK for hangers.
These perches are off a Ruckstell I'm working on.