Rebuilding rear and pinion gear is stuck

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Rebuilding rear and pinion gear is stuck
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alex Dragone on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 07:56 pm:

I am currently rebuilding my rear and the pinion gear is really stuck on the driveshaft and doesn't want to budge. Does anyone have any ideas of how I can get it off? I've tried using a puller and it doesn't want to come off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed Fuller on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 07:59 pm:

Put the pinion nut on loose, slide the driveshaft back into the driveshaft housing, and set the pinion nut on a block of wood on the floor. Use the housing as a slide hammer and the gear will pop loose.

Works for me every time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 08:08 pm:

The good news is that it is a really tight fit.
If you follow Ed's advice I suggest threading the nut almost all the way on so that it is just flush with the end of the threads. I consider this to be a fairly risky approach with the potential to damage GOOD useable original T parts!!
Personally I would go and buy a better puller. One of the ones with a "bearing splitter clamp


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed Fuller on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 10:13 pm:

I guess I should have said that it doesn't take much force to knock the pinion loose.

I agree with what Les said. You want the nut to be about flush with the end of the threads on the driveshaft.

Les, I do respect your opinion. However, I have been successful in using that method without damaging any parts. I also like to think that if a part in the driveline can't hold up to that kind of force then I don't want them installed on my T!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 10:16 pm:

If you beat up the gear with a MAP gas torch then let it cool it comes right off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 10:20 pm:

Royce
"Beating " the gear with a Mapp torch!! Hm. Just kidding


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 10:20 pm:

As the thrust bearing and roller bearing can't come off till the pinion is off and if those parts are in good shape you run the risk of messing them up using the tube as a driver.

Put your puller back on with the nut turned over threaded to be level with end of threads of driveshaft as a backer. Get the puller good and snug and give the end of it a good smart smack with a 5lb engineer hammer. Don't pound on it. Sometimes a good sharp smack will shock it loose.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 10:46 pm:

Stupid I phone. I typed "heat".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alex Dragone on Saturday, February 18, 2017 - 10:59 pm:

Thanks everyone for the great advice. I think I will take the advice from Les and get a better bearing splitter type puller and give it a shot, I don't want to damage anything.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 01:33 am:

Once you get the pinion off you will still need a puller for the sleeve to get the thrust bearing off too. The sleeve is a tight press fit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 05:52 am:

May I strongly recommend that when you start to rebuild it you DON'T use a solid roller set. Fit either a good original spiral-wound roller set, or a modern taper roller pair such as the excellent kit sold by Fun Projects.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Osterman on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 06:52 am:

I love when you look up how to do this in the Ford manual. It always shows a mechanic casually pulling gears off with sort handled tools and minimum effort. I'm still trying to remove the clutch disc drum from my transmission which I warped by applying too much heat. I've ruined the drum at this point and probably caused a distortion making it even hard to get it to move the 3/8" it needs to come off ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 08:41 am:

I'll second what Chris said regarding solid rollers. I used one once, the lubrication has a lot to be desired to say the least.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alex Dragone on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 08:54 am:

As Chris suggested, I'm definitely not using the new solid roller bearings anywhere in my rear, but what is better for the driveshaft, the original roller bearing for the modern enclosed tapered type? I have both.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 09:47 am:

When I have a good original pinion bearing I use it


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, February 19, 2017 - 09:49 am:

Nothing wrong with the original setup if all is within specs and in perfect condition. I've also used the setup from Fun Projects, it is a very fine way to go too.


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