So I got the slug of float material from Langs and have the float turned and ready to mount the hinge to it, I figure very tiny screws and JB Weld. Anything wrong with my thinking on this? Does JB Weld hold up to today's gas also do I need to coat this material with anything? It seems very porous since turning it in the lathe. Thanks in advance. Jim
To make a carburetor float you first need to start with two scoops of ice cream and some root beer and then add the carburetor of your choice.
All jokes aside you may not want to coat the carburetor float with anything that may dissolve and plug it up. I would contact Langs and ask them what they would suggest as to the best method to attach it
Thanks Dennis, If it is Chocolate ice cream you got me interested. I had thought of calling Langs but I wanted to see if anybody had experience in doing this and knew some secrets. Jim
Mount it the same way as a cork float. Two brass screws, washers and nut to hold the hinge on. The attachment screws would go all the way thru and be held on with nuts and washers. Aside from learning to turn it out of stock, why didn't you buy or look for a replacement float? Seems to me that material is a lot more $'s then a replacement brass float.
It should be a closed cell foam that does not need to be coated and holes drilled thru would not be an issue.
Nice turning job.
If you want to coat it use Aero-Gloss Clear Dope from a Hobby Shop that deals with RC Airplanes. The dope over the screws and in the holes would hold them well also.
What carb is the float for?
There is no reason to coat that float material. It is wonderful stuff for a number of reasons and does not require it. All coatings fail in time and the addition of one will only cause you trouble further down the road.
Carb is a Kingston L-4 and I didn't find any floats available in the catalogs. This is why I decided to make my own I can get 4 floats out of one blank of material equals out to about $8.00 apiece and I needed at least two. Jim
Maybe Stan Howe will add something here. He's repaired and made new floats several times with success.
What does Uncle Stan Say?
Ah, got it.
I called Langs and they seem to favor screw and nut as Mark stated in his post above. I would still like to know if J B Weld can handle today's gasoline so I'm performing at little test. I took a scrap piece of float and brass material some J B and a screw and put it together it is now resting in a can of gasoline. Will report back later as to how it holds up. Jim
I hope your JB Weld holds up in gas better than mine did. After some months use, I had occasion to open up a carb where I used JB Weld to plug a hole in the stem and the stuff had become soft, like putty. This was not the quick drying stuff which I never use, it was the original formulation.
Kenny Edmondson is right on. That material looks like nitrophyl. It will absorb gas and become heavy over time. I have coated plenty of nitrophyl and cork floats with fuel proof airplane dope over the years and they have held up well and maintained their buoyancy. Coated floats also hold up well when using oxygenated fuel.
After my trouble with bad gas and stuck valves at the last T Party, I decided to check the carb and found that the previously applied clear model airplane dope had sloughed off the cork float. This may have been because the float was a used one and still had a residue of fuel in the cork, so the coating would not stick properly. The coating came off in sections, rather than dissolving. Not really sure what happened, because along with the dope coating was a lot of some type of black substance. At any rate, ordered a new float (not the slug of material that James shows), and mounted same with my old hinge. Did not coat, so we will see how it goes.
I thought there was a Briggs & Stratton brass float that worked well on Kingston L4s with only minor trimming of the pivot area:
When were cork floats replaced by brass in the Ford stock carburetors?
Lang's catalog call out that it's black closed cell which is what I would expect to see. (black material) The black stuff is what is used for the Model A replacement floats and it is black. I think I would follow the advice to coat it.
This is what it looks like before turning it has an almost plastic feel skin to it. I just checked on my little experiment and it appears that the J B Weld has already started to soften after only one day so it looks like it's going to be screws with nuts. Now for another question do I use brass, aluminum, steel or maybe stainless screws. Jim
Brass is what was used originally, so that's what I would use. I would want to stake the end of the screw so the nut wouldn't vibrate off.
(Message edited by redmodelt on February 21, 2017)
James, before committing 100% I'd make sure the material doesn't absorb gas when that "skin" on the blank has been removed by machining. I got a "ready-made" for my Holley G, FWIW it came with brass screws. It appears to be molded some way from that material.
James, I probably have Kingston Floats if you need one. PM me if you want one.
Well I finished the floats up this afternoon had to use stainless screws cause my source for this type of stuff said they can't get brass.
These carbs have been a real test of my abilities I have had to make a lot of the parts For it, if for no other reason than I can do it. I've made throttle and choke plates, float valve seats, floats and one float hinge also replaced the float hinge lug on the carb body itself. Now on to the next question. What type of paint? I prefer Valspar tractor paint or rattle can Rustoleum 3X. Jim
I have an NH throttle shaft and butterfly installed in my L4. The NH shaft is just big enough to allow a new hole in the casting to take care of wear. The diameter and hole spacing on the NH butterfly's should be the same except the NH are brass. I have been using mat finish Lacquer then bake the castings and bowls. Even then I still get some discoloration. How is the boss for the float pin held in? Neat idea! I have one or two bodies that have the same issue.
The lugs or bosses as you call them were turned and threaded on one end so I milled a flat where the broken one had been and then drilled and tapped the carb body screwed it in with red Loctite and peened the top side. Jim
J&B weld will eventually fail with gas. There are other epoxies out there I'm sure that will hold up, I always used finger nail polish to seal float bowl plugs on quadrajet carbs, color is your choice. KGB
I like using the Aero Gloss Black Fuel Proof dope for painting the carburetors. It holds up well to gas but it is getting harder to find.
Dennis S., I thought all you had to do to make a carburetor float was to fill it with air!?
Sorry, Cabin Fever has struck again!. Dave
I probably have lots of extra Kingston carb bodies laying around too. I personally don't like them.