I have the small bolts and the FORD script but don't want to drill holes in the script if I don't have too. Any suggestions on how to best attach the script? Thanks
Attach it with stainless steel wire. Loop 2 or 3 pieces of stainless wire over the script and run them back though the radiator. On the backside, put 2 or 3 maple sticks, maybe 2" long, and twist the wire ends over the sticks until snug. Try to run the wires away from the core tubes so they don't rub through.
Long, thin brass bolts/screws and solder.
Mine came with holes, so I used brass wire.
"Ford" on the radiator cover isn't enough ? Don't forget to get the
brightly colored windshield decal to make absolutely sure no one
mistakes your Ford for something else !
Script hangs flush and tight with 2 long thin tiny bolts, placed in corners.
The year tag is wired.
I wire mine across the areas marked in red.
I believe the original way is the long thin bolts that Erik showed
Seems to me that Eric has the right idea but If I tried to solder I'd make a big mess. So I used 4 thin screws sorta like Dan did. Hope the pictures show how it turned out. Didn't have to drill holes, just put the head of the screw in a notch as shown. Doesn' look like brass in the photos but it is. Thanks
I did mine the same way as Eric's. The only difference is I used thin Nylok nuts on the inside. The standard Nylok's are too tall and might collide with the fan. They make a low-profile version that better hardware stores carry.
I use popsicle sticks or tongue depressors
State law requires all T owners to mount all applicable year tags
as shown above for all parts present. Only a 100% original car is
allowed to wear one year. Please make a note of it.
DUCT TAPE !! somebody had to say it .
I've mounted two scripts on my brass T's, both scripts had a lightly stamped circle on the back side (one at either end), at that those spots I took either a #4 or #6 flat head brass screw and soldered the head to it. just be care full not to use screws that are too large in diameter to go thru the core. make sure the screw and the script are tinned before joining. line up the script where you want it and carefully push the script into place. use a thin large outside diameter washer or make some washers from a pop can. use some (blue or purple) locktite and a #4 or #6 brass hex nut to secure. don't over tighten.
Mine was stuck on with silicone sealant several years ago.
Just like the brass insignia on military hats. Take brass wire and bend it into a couple of four inch "staples" with two long ends. Solder the flat part into the back of the script. Run the wires through the radiator and carefully bend the wires in the back.
Drilling two holes in the name plate 3935 is what Ford did for the 1909-1910's. Catalog page of parts book.
Bolt 3936, washer 3938, and nut 3937 listed separate.
Solder a brass bicycle spoke nipple to the back of the "Ford" and use shortened spokes as the small bolts.
If you don't have a 1910 or earlier, you don't need one.
.... AND the cars look silly WITH one ! As if any moron can't look six inches
higher and read the same name on the radiator shell !
A little off topic but in the early days the ford was always angled up we were at all of the early International meets out west. how I see they are being mounted straight, which is correct Ours was angled when Dad got the car in 1960 and is angled how Cheers Colin
As long as we're being contrived, ... I gotta order one of these order
one of these for MY truck !
Don't want anyone getting confused that I drive an EMF or Graham
Brothers truck !