I pulled the rear wheel off and it revealed wear on the spring perch nut and the hub attachment head bolts on the inside off hub. The hyatt bearing slide out easily, and it did have a washer, felt and dust cover in place. The one piece brake was broken. Any reason for this to be wearing like this?
The vendors offer an axle shim to space the wheel hub out. As long as the brake shoe is broken at the middle of the anchor hole, it isn't a problem as long as you use springs on both the front and the rear. Turn the springs around so that they are captured between the brake shoe and backing plate.
Maybe clean thing up a tiny bit so we can see what's going on! Include the drum side of the shoe in a photo. Did it have any seals or washers at the inboard end?
Could be the shoes are rubbing on the drum or the pivot bolt head is too thick or as Mark said, the hub is sitting too far inboard on the axle and needs shimmed.
Thanks Mark, that may also explain why the rear wheel came off the axle very easy, unlike all the trails and tribulations others had experienced breaking theirs loose.
Mark G. The drum side of brake shoe shows no sign of wear. The was no washer or seals on the inboard end, just the wheel hub to dust cover.
One or both? LOL
I would rather have some trials and tribulations when pulling the rear wheels then have them come off too easy. Loose wheel hub = worn keyway in hub and axle.
Have the Babbitt washers been replaced in the differential?
Mark O. I'm just trying to get this 1916 runabout safely running. It has not operated in fact the engine had been frozen since the early 70's. The engine now fires up, next is a road test, I would like to have the Hand/ parking brake operational, so with advice from the other Marks ill shim and replace key ways in addition to replacing broken brake. I'm going to replace the two piece valves with one piece, then tackle the rear thrust bearing issue, I'm not sure if it's Babbitt or something else.
I appreciate the help from this forum and the access to all the old threads.
The break at the pivot point will not effect the parking brakes operation. * Just make sure you have springs at both sets of lugs on the back side(backing plate side)of the shoes. Many of the old books/manuals suggest breaking at that point but is not needed. If you look at the shoes where they are separated, you should see the remains of a groove so if broke it would be done there at the center rather then off to one side.
* With that glob of grease it's hard to see where the shoe is broke and what remains in place.
Add the shim to force out the wheel.
But just for laughs and giggles, while working on it, pull the outer bearing off, allowing the axle to "float" in the housing. The start up the car (yes you hear it right) and at a VERY low, high gear idle, watch the axle shaft rotate inside the housing and make sure that it rotates straight and has no bend. Additionally, make sure that it is exactly centered in the housing. If someone along the way thought that tighter radius rods were always better, the housings can actually be bowed putting stress on both the bearings and the axles.
When I see this situation, it always makes me think of my experience: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html.
Typical encounter of any T that has been on the road for awhile.
Did you check axle end play?