Ok ... before everyone jumps on me for being cheap or for not welding and turning down worn original shackles .... I just need to know what others do when they have the shackles with the knurled bolts on the fixed end. I tightened the nuts to where I can insert the cotter pins and the knurled part digs into the bushings.
Aside from sending them back [I've read the previous posts] do those of you who have these file off the knurled part to allow free movement?
In the future I'll replace these .. [will look for NOS at Hershey] but need to spend what little extra cash I have right now on more important parts.
Knurling a shackle is dumb! And, you can't even do it on a late one. Put a micrometer in you pocket when you go to a swap meet and find good used ones. There are often NOS shackles on ebay. Another thing you should learn to do is state the year of the car!
Hmm ... Larry ... you did actually read my post right? :-) I don't have any good used ones or NOS ones or good reproduction ones. I'll let you know how I do at Hershey in October. I also don't see the NOS ones on ebay. Kinda like those $2 Champion X plugs people on this forum seem to find everywhere.
My question was ... what do I do with these to make them work? I'm guessing I file off the exposed knurled area to allow them to move properly and not bind on the bushings. This type is used on modern applications all the time .. not sure why they won't do the job on a T driver.
Mark, I've used these in the past. I needed to remove the bolts and carefully grind the knurl down to the pin diameter for the area outside the link. The knurl ended up just narrower than the thickness of the link. Good luck.
Another junk repro part that shouldn't be used..
Try a wanted ad in the classifieds, maybe someone can help you with usable originals?
Just how bad were the originals? Assuming they weren't worn almost in half, they would probably still work till October. Worn shackles aren't such a bad thing unless they're about to break in two or they let the spring rub on the axle.
I have some extra parts to sell ... will put them up in the classified and see if anyone might have good ones for trade.
You should not have to fix them but I would just file off the any raised areas and use them. Any small amount of area that is bigger then the shaft will soon seat itself and would only be a very small amount of the total usable length of the shaft.
I think this is a time when the Dremel tool is your friend. Put one or two of the cut-off disks in the tool (or use one of the thick ones)and carefully grind the raised knurling off. that will live grooves, but they're below the surface and not a problem--it's not like this has to be fitted to the thousandths, you just don't want the knurling to mess up your bushings. Then, yes, look for better shackles!
I noticed that there are original style shackles (expensive) and non-original style (less expensive) available.
Are there quality concerns with either of the repros?
Yes. There have been cases of the pressed repops falling apart. As others have said, I would cobble up a repair and use it while looking for better used original shackles.
FWIW The discussion Roger shows above I posted on November 15, 2013. I did buy the better reproduction shackles but haven't installed them yet. The other 3 shackles seem to be doing fine so far after 15 years and approx 8,000 miles. Nos would be nice. The excellent shackles being sold should outlast most T's. Grinding the knurl should work fine for many miles. I suspect they would be hard on a file.
We are lucky to have any of these parts available. Sometimes the cheap parts sell better that the better ones. Discussions like this can be very helpful.
To make my day even more frustrating ... I had someone press off the gears from my old rear axles to install them on brand new axles. He phoned me this afternoon to let me know that the key removed from the original axle is too loose in the new axle.
The vendor is going to send me new keys ... but if they fit the new axles ... won't they be too big for the gears?
Mark, I just recently assembled my front axle
with those exact shackles, I tightened the nuts and the same thing happened, they got tight from
the knurling. I took them out and tried to file
the knurling but they must be hardened because
the file did nothing. I reassembled them and
bounced the front end and the knurling seemed
to wear into the sleeves and they loosened up.
so it may be as simple as that, hope this helps
Mark, I've had the same problem with the reproduction shackles. I tapped the bushing out a little bit with the driver that the suppliers sell. Then I ground the bushing flush with the spring and perches then tapped them back in until the opposite end was flush with the other side. After that the splines had plenty of room and everything was able to move like is supposed to. Of course this is not the ideal thing to do but, it works. I later replaced the new set on my front axle with a pair of good original Ford shackles. I replaced the bushings at the same time too. I'm still looking for a good set for the rear axle.
"...but if they fit the new axles ... won't they be too big for the gears?"
Oh oh. Mark, I'll be watching closely. Please let us know... :-/
Stephen and Doug,
Thanks, that seems to be the conventional wisdom. Have had others contact me by email and phone and tell me their experiences. So .. I'll attack them tonight.
Then I got the news about those faulty axles. A friendly call informed me that these axles may have come from a large batch that also had the hub end keyways cut too long. This person told me they sent many back to the manufacturer. I'm bummed because there is nice weather and I really wanted to get the rear axle done and installed before it gets cold again. It's also a hassle to ship heavy stuff back.
Ha ... when I said attack them tonight .. I meant the shackles!
I just put a set from langs on the rear. Fit perfect. Im a very low milage driver so im hoping theynwill be ok.
We make all of the correct shackles and they fit perfectly with no modifications. Don't buy the junk.
Glen, does this mean that the L shaped shackles which followed on from the figure 8 style are now available?
Allan from down under.
I went to the Big Three swapmeet in San Diego yesterday, and there were good original shackles everywhere that could be cleaned up and reused.
Alan, WE make them all 09-12 Mae West, 13-17 Figure 8, 17-27 U shaped.
Glen, I was hoping you made the forged L shackles which followed the figure 8's. Our Canadian cars had those well into the 20's before going to the U shaped.
I can rebuild our L type, but having new ones available would be nice.
Allan from down under.
Allen, We do have the later L shaped brackets but they are a little different than the originals. We do not make them. See page 138 of our 2016 catalog. Part number 3813/3840 AL/ALD. The D"s are drilled for oilers. They are nice.