Sediment Bulb Valve Stiffening Up

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Sediment Bulb Valve Stiffening Up
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Coiro on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 04:36 pm:

For reasons pertaining to fire, I'm in the habit of shutting the fuel valves at the carburetor and at the sediment bulb when I park the Flivver in my attached garage (Sleeping eight feet above a 100-year-old gas tank can cause one to think that way). _As of late, the shut-off valve on the sediment bulb has gradually become stiffer and stiffer to move, and perhaps this has something to do with the alcohol in today's gasoline. _Anyway, I've tried spraying the outside of the bulb with Liquid Wrench to loosen things up, but that hasn't really helped.

Now, rather than over-react and start taking things apart unnecessarily (as when I took the body off the frame to get at an allegedly malfunctioning starter, but in reality, the problem was only a dead battery), I figure I'll ask the gang on the forum about whether there may be some kind of bottled or canned liquid remedy I could just pour into the gas tank. _Or perhaps there's some other way of attacking this problem?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 04:42 pm:

I have lubed them with lvory bar soap.Not my idea,it's in a Dykes'or similar manual.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Dufault on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 04:43 pm:

Someone will surely suggest MMO...:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 04:50 pm:

Whenever you want to move the bulb handle, get in the habit of giving the end of the handle a tap to dislodge it from its taper before you move it. Likewise, after you move it, give it a tap on the handle end to seat the taper.

If you are willing to drain the tank, you can remove the end screw and spring, take the handle out, and lube the taper with aviation fuel lube. The vendors supply it, or you can get it cheaper at an aviation supply store.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 05:54 pm:

Please note, the above is possibly the world's only recorded use of the phrase, "You can get it cheaper at an aviation supply store."


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 05:58 pm:

LOL Tim, you're probably correct! I'm just going by comments that Royce has made in the past. Based on some of his earlier posts, I get the impression that he is an A&P mechanic by trade.

Royce, am I right?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Spaziano, Bellflower, CA. on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 06:03 pm:

I use a product called Krytox. If you get that stuff, make sure you read the instructions including the safety warnings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dale Peterson College Place, WA on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 06:19 pm:

The aviation lube is the way yo go. The valve turns much easier and NO leaking. I did my sediment bulb valve 3 years ago and still doing peachy. Ther is enough in the small tube to last a fleet of T's several centuries!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 08:01 pm:

Any lubricant that does not break down in gasoline or alcohol will work. That rules out grease or oil.

My father and I used bar soap years ago - no problems yet. (See Jim Eviston's post above.) Does not have to be Ivory.

Or, you can aviation lube as mentioned above.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 - 08:36 pm:

This is the correct product for this application. A 5oz tube will last you a lifetime.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php

Bob, take the sediment bulb apart and apply a thin film to the mating valve surfaces. Do it right and it'll be the last time you ever have to do it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 04:16 am:

DON'T use a hammer to dislodge the taper, use a plastic or hard rubber hammer. Those won't swell the end of the of the taper. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Seth - Jefferson, Ohio on Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 07:20 am:

Maybe I'll buy a pound can in the ad that Dan posted and use it on my elbows and knees!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Wells, Hamilton Ontario on Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 08:52 am:

I suggest Marvel Mystery Oil.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 01:35 pm:

EZTURNLUBE and be done with it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Willis Jenkins on Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 07:15 pm:

Bob,

A good idea would be first to use TimerSaver power & oil to clean up the tapers. Then use the aviation fuel lube. You can get both at Langs.

Cheers,
Willis


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