So it stared right up but I can't seem to get a free neutral .. so it drove out of the garage on its own..... any ideas how to get a free neutral .... thanks for any help .. Joe
What do you mean by free neutral? If it means finding neutral so you can push the car, there is an emergency brake lever position between full brake (with lever pulled all the way back putting the car in neutral with brake drums engaged) and high gear (with lever all the way forward). The exact position that leaves the car in neutral, but releases the brakes is a few clicks forward of the lever being pulled all the way back. You will need to experiment to find it, but it is there. Jim Patrick
If you can get it in low, then you should be able to find neutral as Jim explained. I fired one up after setting a while (not 28 years). I jacked up both rear wheels, fired it up. Then put lever in neutral position. with engine about 1/4 open, stomp on brake. Let off before engine dies. Keep doing this, the clutches should break loose end you can eventually stop the wheels with the brake & engine will keep running. You probably know they really don't have a "real" neutral, but there is a spot where you can run the engine (I don't like to run it long) with the park brake or service brake holding the car.
There is not literally a neutral in the Model T transmission. For the engine to spin freely the clutch is disengaged and the low and reverse bands are not applied.
The main things that need to be properly adjusted to get a "free" neutral:
1. Make sure the low and reverse bands are not adjusted too tight. The pedals must move nearly their entire available travel before the band clamps on the drum. The reverse pedal is adjusted so that this happens just enough that the pedal does not "stick" when stomped hard with your foot. The low pedal needs to be engaged about 1 1/2" above the floor boards.
2. Make sure the oil is the proper weight. If you are using SAE 30 in the winter time the clutch will not disengage freely until the engine is quite warm. A good oil for typical cool and summer use is 5W-30.
3. Make sure the clutch disengages all the way. Often the clutch linkage is so worn that it can't be adjusted properly. I have had to make a longer L - link to compensate for worn out holes in the linkage and pedal.
If you had no problems the last time you drove the car, why now assume you have linkage problems ????? Drain the old oil, give it time overnight or a few days, replace drain capscrew & add fresh lightweight oil with a little kerosene & run the engine with the rear axel on stands.....pull back on the lever to let the clutch plates slide as they should to get a neutral. Drain, & fill with your choice of oil.... happy motoring !!
What Royce said. Follow his instructions and you will see much improvement. The T doesn't have a real neutral, just kind of a state of impatience waiting for action.
This is great information....thanks for posting it.
Thanks Royce and all who gave me great valuable information. I appreciate the help you all gave. ...Joe