This afternoon's project...cleaning up the filthy hogshead and installing the hogshead portion of the external oiler from Texas T Parts.
I want to give this tired old girl as many advantages as possible...including sufficient oiling to the front of the engine.
I scraped and scrubbed the hogshead and was surprised to see black paint still present under all that grime.
(Message edited by rustyfords on February 25, 2017)
Next time I have the hogshead off, I'm going to swap that brass fitting elbow for a regular 3/8" street ell. "Stuff" can hang up in the right angle passage in the brass elbow. There was a con-rod shim (?) and some splinters from wood band linings in mine. I think the smooth radius of a street ell would improve flow.
Good to know Rich...I may make that modification before the hogshead goes back on.
If you have access to a really good plumbing supply, you can get a brass ell - niftier than black pipe or galvanized that says "china" on it !! ;- )
If you really want a smooooth transition, take that street ell and a grinding tool and enlarge the insides of the "nipple" end--you don't need all that metal there, as the ell isn't subjected to any real pressure.
That hogshead looks fantastic Don. I like that black paint shining thru!
Months ago, I was fiddling around late one night, taking pictures of the casting marks on the '19 engine in my Crappy '24 Lizzhe and what showed up instead of the rust that I've grown used to seeing?
The remains of the hideous green paint that was put on that block some 98 years ago. Nah, maybe it was moss... ;-)
Goll that looks nice. That oiler looks great!
OTOH. I've been pleasantly surprised at the quality USA brass and iron fittings sent to my work from McMaster-Carr for our projects. :-)
Please take note, I just installed the same oiler and found that the inside aluminum plate that mates to the outside fixture was hitting the top edge of on of the mag field coils!!!! Had I not noticed this could have been a disaster. Had to take a die grinder and remove a bunch of the aluminum material. Yes I did use the template and have it in the correct location. Mine was installed in a cast iron 24' hogshead. Just words of wisdom!
Thanks Bob. I'll set in place and turn the engine by hand and check for clearance
Bob...did you place the gasket on the inside or outside of the hogshead?
I have drilled and tapped the hogshead on my T's and do not have an inside piece, leaks or interference.
This old 24 is surprising me. I originally thought I'd just get it running and not do much to it....just putt around the neighborhood.
However, the old girl is cleaning up so nicely and has so much ancient paint intact that I'm treading a bit more softly.
She's still going to be left in "Grapes of Wrath" condition, but in a clean and very mechanically sound version of "Grapes of Wrath"...if such a thing ever existed.
The one panel that's pretty bad is the driver's side rear door, but a forum member here is bringing me a good replacement to Chickasha.
After that, I just lack a few more pieces and a viable interior. I'd like a worn, original style interior, but I'm not opposed to making one out of something else.
I'm going to post a list of my needed parts in the classifieds here shortly.
The Terry Horlick designed oiler is one of the best oilers out there. My Engine has had since 03. I remember when Horlick was tinkering with the set up and posted here.
LANGS sells a kit for $29 and it says "install in 10 minutes and no holes needed"
Has anyone used it ?
By the way , very helpful info and pictures Don ! thank you , and make sure you show us the pan part .
Mike....that's most likely the magneto post oiler.
I think those a little bit of extra oil, but not nearly as much as this setup does.
Here's the whole assembly.
I'll flip the hogshead over and take a picture of what it looks like from underneath.
I also did not like the sharp 90 degree angle in the standard brass fittings supplied with the kit. Consequently I went with copper elbows with a nice "free-flow "radius as you can see in the photos. Done several installations in this fashion.
That makes a nice, clean job, William ! The beauty of this accessory is that it makes the most of the incredible "oil storm" a T throws off of the flywheel, even without magnets.
George, I remember that. This one showed up long after my design was presented in this forum and is nearly identical to mine. The major difference is mine is designed so that there is no interference with the mag. The placement I used and scoop design is, in my opinion, superior. Placement is over the magnets on the passenger side so flow is greater and a 5-8 psi pressure in the 1/2" oil line is produced.
The man himself ! What a great honor Mr Terry Horlich. Thanks for develop this for all of us. And the question is : where do i buy yours ?
Don, the gasket goes on the outside. The interference was not from the turning parts, it was on the edge of the inside part touching one of the stationary field coils. When I test fit the hogshead I found that it would not quite lay down flat on the pan. When I rocked it back and forth then lifted it off I noticed some powder on the aluminum inside. it was the insulation coating from one of the field coils. I did have the pan gasket in place. So I put some blueing on the aluminum part and kept grinding & test fitting until I had clearance.
Could the placement have been off? Looks like there's a bit of forward/reverse (in/out) room for mounting the fitting. A bit one way or the other and you're hitting something.
I saw the Texas T Parts item working on a demo engine at Chickasha in 2010. With the standard fittings as supplied with the kit, it showed heaps of oil going to the front, with minimal revs. Unless you have a bad lining which is shredding and making lots of fluff, I would not be concerned with the flow rate. The supplied fittings also allow some wriggle room when aligning the copper feed pipe.
Allan from down under.
Thanks for the info Terry H.
Geo. n Lake Ozark, Missouruh
I had heard some doctor back in the 30's had designed this, years ago on a tour Jim Tyler from Fostoria Ohio showed me his on his 14 roadster that the Dr. sold him back in the 50's, he had a clear plastic line on a section of it to show how well it flowed.
Joe, well that trumps my design. My oiler was s part of a system: scoop, position on hogshead, return line to pan and customized "mountain pan" dips. I have gone back to stock on my T ( except for the dips which are the heart of the system and cannot be seen externally) since I don't do much off roading in the mountains in Rusty anymore. I'll never run a T without my improved dips again! If that scoop on your friend's T is one of my one piece cast aluminum scoops then I am that 1930's doctor! Only I didn't start fooling with this until after the start of the 21st. century and was born in 1953. Even so it is often thought that I am the original owner of my T.
Mike, I have never sold mine, just published all the secrets and gave away a couple of the scoop castings. Now I only have the very successful prototype scoop on it's hogshead and it's pan, the dips (inside Rusty) and the pattern to cast more scoops.
(Message edited by Thorlick on March 05, 2017)
It should be easy to clear up as almost everything is advertised in some old accessory catalog but i do not think i have ever seen it? Another thing i have never seen is that there is a inside piece??It would seem if only to me the inside piece might not be needed with the oil being thrown outward? I remember when DR Terry H first brought up the idea and Reid Welch installed one and found along with a large flow enough pressure was found to use a oil filter!! I like my 14 very stock but after busting a crank and thus needing a total rebuild I had Joe Bell install mine!! Over the years i have made over 4500 post and while i have doubts anyone ever learned anything from me,i have learned much from others!! Do you get my drift mm?? Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Dr. Terry Horlick :
Any dumb despicable human been can earn
Only the kind and correct can
earn respect and appreciation !
Thank you for bring us the Terry Horlick
oiler system ! We all know who you
Dr. Terry Horlick was an inspiration to me when I replaced the iron hogshead the previous owner had installed wanting to convert to elect start with an alum one on my '12 torpedo. I chose to copy his design and fabricated one from a piece of alum and welded it on with a scoop inside. When I had the engine apart I also welded in the dipper dams and added a 4th dam. I was dam glad I had that 4th one on a day when I dropped a washer off the fourth rod cap and was captured in the 4th dam! Seemed like a great idea and have been running with a Horlick system ever since.
Thanks Again Terry!
WE ARE IN THE PROCESS OF MAKING THE FORD FAITHFUL OILER. THEY SHOULD BE AVAILABLE SOON
Welding a scoop inside your hogshead is a fantastic idea. It would be simple to put it on the passenger side for the most volume and run it on an auxiliary inside line up to the front. All the changes you make would be completely hidden.
I am not sure folks understand that the huge oil flows are only for use in locales where very steep and very long grades are common. In the flatlands a high flow oiler like my design will lead to constant fouling of #1 and #2 plugs (even so it is easier to change #1 and #2 plugs than it is #1 and #2 rods!). If you have a high flow auxiliary oiler it would be a good idea to add a ball valve in the line so you can decrease or stop flow in that line for ordinary driving and open it up for days you are going into the mountains for a little off road fun!
The Ford Faithful Glen is going to be making should provide more oil for the front than you will need. I ran a Ford Faithful oiler along with my mountain pan dip dams on the 1913 Fire brigade car and it worked very well... no oil fouling and peace of mind!
I have yet to foul any spark plugs and no leaks or troubles!! Bud in the flatland's!
For my 27 Tudor I drilled a hole in the hogs head and inserted a 5/8" steel tube salvaged from a pcv tube, welded it in. the inside end is cut off at a 45 and is about 3/4" off the flywheel. This thing pumps alot of oil.
John, that is brilliant! Good placement also! Is that in the way of the '26-'27 hogshead to engine mount bars?
Bud, I can't remember the exact number right now but I am recalling that my oiler delivered more than a gallon a minute. My mag post oiler I tested would take around 30 minutes to the quart. With that kind of flow at 3-8 psi I had a real problem with fouling #1 and #2. What kind of oiler were you using?
Terry,We would have to ask Joe Bell? At the time of the rebuild i told Joe i wanted the pan straghtened ,the EE crank and flywheel balanced,and a Terry H oil scoop installed in the hogshead?? We also changed heads to use a rare Ford primer cup head.If i don't have a Terry H oil scoop it sure looks like yours? Yours is what we talked about. Bud.
I'm ok with fouling plugs occasionally.....like Terry said, that 's a lot less hassle then tearing up a rod bearing.