Many of you helped with feedback on bearings to use for the rear end of my '27 T. Replaced inner seal, sleeve, bearing, washer, felt, cap, and parking break lining. (Parking break lining was covered in burnt/baked/funky grease.) Learned a lot of the last few weeks. Now it's all back together and a new problem. When I took the rear hubs off at the start, I pulled the cotter pin and the axle nuts were only about finger tight. Putting it back together now, I read where the rear axle nuts should be "#@&!*%# tight and then a little more till you can get the cotter pin back in". Consensus seems to be about 100ft-lbs. Problem is, when I do that, I can't turn the wheel. Are rear axle shims appropriate here or do I perhaps have something else going on? Is it ok to stack shims if one doesn't work.

Did the outer sleeve stick out past axle houseing after inner seal was installed ?

I don't stack shim. If I need more I make a thick one from shim stock. You probably need to readjust your brake shoes since the new ones are thicker. Tighten the hub nut to 75 pounds then line up the hole, retorque after first test drive.

Andy

Dallas, negative. Everything was flush with the new sleeve/bearing.

Andy, how do you adjust the brakes? The new linings are a little thicker, but don't see how to adjust.

The brake rods have a U shape clevis on the end . Pull the cotter pin and turn on rod. Make sure they are both set the same. It can lock up one rear wheel . Dont ask how I know. I would unhook them and see if wheel will turn 1st.

If you back the nut off a couple turns does it turn freely?

Back up a little here. Pull the rear hub(s) back loose. Can you turn the wheel(s)? Have both wheels off the ground and brake rods disconnected.
If it's the new linings;
To adjust the shoes you need to arc them too the drums and maybe remove some thickness.
A disk sander on a table saw works great to arc the shoes and grind down to fit.
After the shoes are made to fit the drums and every ting rotates without drag, then adjust the brake rods.

When I loosen the nut, I can turn the hubs, but it's clear the linings are touching drums because I can hear it rubbing. The brake camshaft is perfectly horizontal (i.e. fully disengaging the brake). Didn't realize I may have to sand the linings down. (I presume that's what you meant). Anyone have a link to a manual excerpt? I have several books, but none address parking brake lining replacement.

If the wheel turns when you loosen the nut, and the brake drum is still covering the new linings on the brake shoes, try an axle shim to space the wheel out a bit.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2505SH.aspx

Try removing the brake shoes and install and torque the rear hubs. If they still bind, the problem is not in the brakes. If the wheels turn freely, then your problem is with the shoes. You can try some chalk or prussian blue on the outside edge of the shoes to see if they scrape on the drums. Some of the new shoes will need some grinding in that area. I wouldn't use any prussian blue on the surface of the lining, but some chalk would allow you to see whether it is rubbing on certain points which will need to be filed down just a little. Sometimes it is necessary to grind off a little from the flat surfaces where they ride on the cam. Anyway, it should not be tight unless the brake is too tight. One thing I didn't mention above is the length of the rods. They will need to be re-adjusted after relining the brakes. Take out the clevis pins and if they still bind, the problem is in side the brake drum, but if they stop binding when you remove the clevis pins, the rods need to be lengthened.
Norm

I had the same problem when I used the square ball bearings.

Changed to the round ones and used grease instead of dirt. It
worked much better.

Burger, you cant use square bearings in a round race. You need the square race for those. As for lube, try adding water to the dirt.

OK, wanted to give a quick update. I don't get to work much on the T during the week, so I have to get as much done on the weekend as I can. (I long for the days when I retire and can spend as much time as I desire on the T.) Took a multi-fix approach based on everyone's input. Sanded the new parking brake linings down a bit and added a shim on each axle. As it turns out, when I pulled the hub to do that work, I noticed some scrapes where the hub run up against the cup that holds the bearing/washer/felt in. So I took the rubber mallet and seated the cup a bit more. After all that, tightened the %$#@& out of the axle nut and it all worked great! Took her out for a nice spin. That was nice since she had been on jack stands for over a month. The only downside...the original squeak in the front that started me on this bearing replacement journey is still there. Hmmmmm. It's OK, though, because I learned a lot and it needed to be done. Now to find that darn squeak.

Thanks for the update, glad to hear you made significant progress.

Your squeak could be something as simple as your throttle and spark rods rattling from engine vibration, I've seen that many times and it will drive you crazy thinking it is something more serious. Mike