I need advice again. Swapping out a vaporizer for a NH but the exhaust pipe nut is ridiculously tight. Any of you model T guys have any ideas to get it loose? I PB blasted it tonight but couldn't budge it!!Any advise would be great the pipe has been ran for 3-4 years since the exhaust nut was put on. Thanks for the help. Tim
Get it hot first....either run the engine or use a propane torch (go easy).
Mine wasn't budging either. It had been on there for at least 47 years....probably a lot longer. I heated it up with a torch and it started moving.
I then squirted some penetrating oil in the threads and rocked it back and forth with my exhaust nut wrench and each time I rocked it, it moved a bit further.....then eventually gave up and came off.
In case it does not come off even with the correct mighty wrench, heat, penetrating oil, I will be the first to welcome you to the 2 piece exhaust manifold club. We are legion.
Tim, along with heat, keep tapping at the flats on the nut with a ball pein hammer. This will help break the rust and possibly expand the nut a little. Don's suggestion to rock it back and forth, once you have even the slightest movement, will let you gradually wind it off. Patience is a virtue.
When you put it back on, use some high temp anti seize compound on the threads and it will not give you the same grief down the track.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Heat expands the metal. Heat only long enough to expand the nut without heating and expanding the exhaust manifold threads inside the nut. Tricky. Jim Patrick
Use a hammer to tap on the flats as far as you can get around them. Do this repeatedly for a while. Then get a wrench, ( I used a pipe wrench with a 2ft cheater on the handle. ) It will begin to slightly move and when it does tap on the flats again. Do this repeatedly and it begin begin to turn. Then use wd-40 or something similar and it will come off. Take your time.
Using a hammer in this way is an old plumbers trick that usually works.
Don't use pipe wrenches! All they do is mess up the nut, plus the handle needs to be offset to avoid hitting stuff. A Ford pack nut wrench is the only way to go.
If you're swapping the manifolds anyway, you can remove them and the Vaporizer WITH the entire exhaust pipe and work on it elsewhere - away from fuel. When I swapped by engine, I just removed and replaced the whole lot together.
Obviously, I had the radiator out, but I think the exhaust system and manifolds will come out anyway.
Larry I've used a pipe wrench on the manifold nuts since I was a kid. Never hurt any of them. Its all in the way you do it and knowing how to do it.
There is a reason that Exhaust Nut Wrench does not have a longer handle.
I used a wrench with a longer handle twice last year and twisted off the whole threaded area of the Exhaust Manifold.
The good news was that the pipe and manifold were separated and the engine could come out.
Then too, the exhaust manifold is usually too warped to be reused.
I second the recommendation to heat the nut, however, apply wet rags to the manifold, so as to isolate the heat to the nut. Use the correct Ford wrench, or use a crescent like I do. I'm not criticizing your use of a pipe wrench John, but would like to know how this is to be applied with a cheater bar and menacing force to a brass nut, without damaging the nut?
Tim: Why not fix the Vaporizer? They work fine if they are right. If it has broken parts, call me. Dan
Dan I pulled it off tonight. Used PB blaster on the threads and tapped on the exhaust nut on all sides with a hammer and the nut came off the exhaust easy. I bought a Wilmo because it was one piece and easier to handle. I had it high temp powder coated so it wouldn't peel. I kept the vaporizer maybe it can be rebuilt again. A man I Knoxville built it last time and it was hard to start and ran rich. Thanks for all of the advice from everyone.
Scott, Its all in the size of the pipe wrench. I have an old Ridged pipe wrench that's 12" long. The jaws open just wide enough to make a good fit on the nut. If you take any rusted or old fitting and grad a 'big ol pipe wrench' or any other wrench and start getting down on the part you'll twist or break it off every time. Its what you do before hand that's makes the difference.
Thanks John. I was thinking more about the steel jaws digging into the brass.