Kingston L4 gaskets....what the flange?!

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Kingston L4 gaskets....what the flange?!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 10:16 pm:

So, I got a gasket kit for the L4 from Lang's and I'm kinda stumped. Obviously the bowl gasket and the base gasket for the are self-explanatory.

The little red float valve gasket is ok, but what is the bigger blue "flange gasket" for? Why are there no gaskets included for the two brass screws on the body (the spoon valve damper and the hinge for that valve)? I have a later model L4 (steel body)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James M. Riedy, Sandusky, Ohio on Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 10:37 pm:

Chris, Just been through this myself. Also no gasket for the bowl drain. Fortunately I had a bunch of old carb rebuild kits around and was able to scrounge enough to finish my carbs. I also wonder about that bigger gasket that does not fit anything I can find on the carbs. Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 12:32 am:

The gasket sets cover L thru L4. There were 2 different size bowl nuts, the larger and the smaller ones. The L to early L4 used the small bowl nut gasket. The 1921 to end L4's used the larger nut/gasket. The brass flapper retaining screws do not get gaskets, nor does the piece that holds the bumper.
If the drain is screwed into the bowl, it is self sealing, no gasket.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 11:01 pm:

Ah, makes some sense. However, I think I saw a breakdown diagram that did show gaskets on the two brass screws. I put gasket sealer on the drain and the bowl gasket just to make sure they stay sealed. I refaced the spray needle and seat needle, so let's hope it doesn't leak anymore and runs well!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 03:45 pm:

If you saw and illustration showing gaskets, the 1920 nor the 1928 parts catalog list them.
Often the brass fittings used in some of these locations was meant to be self sealing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James M. Riedy, Sandusky, Ohio on Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 07:11 pm:

So Mark your saying the drain valve screws directly into the bowl on some L-4's, because the two later ones that I just finished up the valve passes through and has a nut on the inside that I would believe should have a gasket. Jim

(Message edited by tfan on March 02, 2017)

(Message edited by tfan on March 02, 2017)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, March 03, 2017 - 11:16 am:

It's been a number of years since I have had the bowl off to really look at how the drain was mounted because it didn't give me any problems. I just went out and pulled the bowl off mine to take a look. It's the small nut cast iron body Kingston and has the nut also to hold the drain valve in place. Between the brass drain body and thin brass nut I have don't have a gasket. The brass nut may have been soldered to the bowl or there was a thin layer of solder put down for the nut to bed in, I would have to do some cleaning to see for sure. I think it works like a flared fitting, the steel flared line is pulled tight to the brass fitting and seals, in the Kingston case the 2 brass parts are pulled tight together and seal. There may be a little more to how the drain was made where it fits in the hole but am not going to pull the drain off because it does not leak and I don't want to temp the hands of fate! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, March 03, 2017 - 12:58 pm:

UPdate! Just got to the shop. 1st my carb is the large nut one. The two we have on the shelf are the small nut type.
One with the correct valve and nut; does have a gasket under the nut but is not consistent with the gaskets that would have been used from the factory, the material looks wrong and the outside diameter is way larger then needed. I suspect it was added at a later date.
The 2ed one, wrong drain valve soldered in.
That's all I can tell you except, if you add a gasket make sure it fits tight to the threads and is not too thick, the threads don't stick up that much over the thin jamb nut as it is.


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