I just purchased an enclosed trailer and will be having E-track installed and need to know exact spacing for Model T's. In other words, how far apart E-tracks need to be from each other? Someone on the forum some time ago mentioned 56" apart. After measuring on one of my T's, that seems about right. Anybody have any advice ref E-track spacing?
Also, what is best type tie-down fixtures and straps to use with E-track,......???
Right in the center where your tires sit - especially if you're using wheel nets.
Install your etrac width wise across your trailer.
Lengthwise at 56" O.C. recessed in the floor.
Where ever you put it, make sure it is fastened to something solid. Not just screwed to the plywood flooring. There is an old saying "chain only as strong as it's weakest link". Dan
Steve & Derek - O.K.,....56" center-to-center! Got it! I thought I remembered 56", but couldn't find that thread, and as far as "memory", well,......you know.........
Freighter Jim - Well, you're the first and only one that I recall that ever suggested "crosswise", but then you're the only one I can recall that ever suggested "barn doors" at the rear instead of a ramp type door too! Well, I told them crosswise, and I guess I'll stick to that, but they sell E-track in all different lengths, so I figure I can always put more in later if it want or need to.
Here's the thing Jim,.....one of my Model "T's is a little '23 roadster pickup with a matching little Model T utility trailer, and I'll occasionally want to haul that whole rig someplace, and I really think I want the option of putting the tie-down points anywhere I want "lengthwise" so as to be able to adjust for proper hitch weight and such.
Dan Hatch - Thanks for the tip, but believe it or not, I was pretty clear on that with the dealer. He got me a great "price-per-sq. ft. deal" on applying Line-X to the floor prior to E-track installation, and the dealer himself personally made sure that both sidewalls are marked, just above floor level so that he can find the 16" OC crossmembers when his guys install the E-track a couple days after the Line-X fully "cures" or whatever it does.
One thing that I'm still "exploring" is what type of tie-downs I want. Steve mentioned the "basket" type, and Derek's great photo (thanks Derek) looks like the basket type too. I saw someplace on the internet, that there is such a thing as "double adjustable" basket type tie-downs. I'm trying to find out more about those, because I remember that Steve Jelf discovered that the basket type of tie downs that came with a U-Haul trailer that he rented were pretty much useless with a Model T.
Anybody else have experience, "pro" or "con" with basket type nylon tie-downs?
Thanks so much for the help guys,.....LOVE this forum,.......harold
I bought my basket straps from Boxer Tie Down
I have the double-adjustable type.
I think the single-adjustable would be faster and easier to install IF they fit... I never tried them, so I can't say for sure if they would.
Steve - Well, looking back, I guess you said "wheel nets" and I said "basket type" but I think we're talking about the same thing. I think one great argument in favor of "wheel nets" is that the railroad has been tying down new automobiles on RR auto racks that way for many years. Hey, how ya' been buddy? We missed you and Dianne at the Early Bird Swap Meet! (.....well,.....we missed Dianne anyway,.....We did use your old booth tho',......(:^)
Great info Derek! Thank you! We were typing at the same time!
As far as Tiedowns go- the adjustable basket style that Derek posted the link to work great on T size wheels. Dan
Try Mac's Tiedowns. NOT the Mac that sells Model T parts, so beloved of so many on this forum. They'll make you baskets to fit your wheels. I have two sets: 30" for my T and my one-lung Cadillac, and 33" for my Buick and my Stanley. In different colors, so I don't grab the wrong set! They work great! You might also consider airline track instead of e-track. Much easier to keep clean.
Dan - Great! That's good to hear. I was hoping someone would know for sure if they work well. Pretty sure that's the route I'm going to go as there may come a day when I'll want to haul a car with modern size tires and I'm sure that that's the advantage of the adjustable type,....thanks again Dan,.....harold
Gilbert F. - We were typing at the same time. More good information ref the basket type! Thank you so much,.....I am now convinced that the basket type is the way to go, and I really like the "color coded" idea,....thanks again,.......harold
In my area the portable parking lots as the C Brs call them, I have yet to see any cars tied down with basket straps and some hall 9 at a time. Tie it down with the wheels and the body will be bouncing up and down like a 5 year wanting ice cream I use D rings mounted to the floor to a frame plate and ratchet straps then the load can be adjusted for proper tongue weight. WHEN I SAY RATCHET STRAPS I MEAN GOOD ONES NOT CHEEP HARBOR FREIGHT ONES.
I don't " buy in " to what the trailer dealers sell as options - often they are over priced high profit margin add ons
that can be accomplished more economically and better designed by the person using the trailer.
On my first trailer - I just used a 5 foot piece of etrac at the rear door so I would not drive over it.
Later I evolved to wider spans of heavier etrac that could withstand vehicle traffic:
Recessed etrac is usually tack welded to the metal frame.
The actual holding capacity is determined by the quality and number of welds.
The wood floor is cut around the etrac which compromises the structural integrity of the floor.
D rings are cut in the floor using a hole saw.
They are usually fastened with nuts & bolts thru the floor or tack welded to the frame.
Their actually holding capacity relies on the fasteners or the tack welds.
Ramp doors are easier to install & cheaper for the manufacturer than barn doors.
The average weight capacity is 4000 pounds - adequate for a Model T or lighter vehicle but not sturdy enough for a heavier vehicle.
Heavier & taller ramp doors need an electric winch in the ceiling to assist in raising & lowering the door because the springs cannot handle the weight.
Ramp doors can warp - bend if used on crowned or uneven road surfaces ( which are common in the real world).
I offer my advice based on years of transporting all types of vehicles & cargo - it is thru trial & error that I learn.
I spec double thick floors.
I spec rear & side barn doors.
I use commercial quality vehicle loading ramps made in Wisconsin.
I use 50K rated etrac that you can drive a vehicle over.
I surface mount it to the floor using 1/4 " nuts - bolts - washers - fender washers thru both floor layers.
I use cargo trailer rubber mats to protect my trailer floor.
Even if you think you are going to only ever transport a Model T - your fastening system should offer the flexibility to secure
other vehicles & cargo you may not anticipate moving at the moment - but you or someone you sell your trailer to down the road might ....
WOW! Nothing quite like "the voice of experience"! Thank you Jim. I'm learning a lot more than I expected when I started this thread!