Mounted bracket to horn, painted the screws ,tested the horn with a 6v charger. After painting the block last week will start putting it back together.

Will take off old horn, install new one.

Well so far this year i have finished rebuilding my rear end, drive shaft, and rear spring. I reinstalled them last week. This week i am cleaning the gas tank and getting ready to coat the inside with a liquid liner. I made a rig for the tank so i could roll pea gravel around inside to get as much rust out of it as posible and once flushed and dry i will coat it inside.

What'd I do yesterday? I brought my C Cab Ford flatbed out of a 15 year slumber and prepared it for an exclusively TT tour this Saturday with the San Antonio club.

Got about halfway through reworking/repairing the key panel on the 24 Touring.

I won't loose my new gas cap . . .

I just got the roadster body in sealer and ready for the first coat of gloss grey. hopfully the motor will be out of the machine shop by next week

The key wouldn't turn and the panel and gauge were filthy so I dissected it all.

The original key cylinder was seized in the sleeve and disintegrated when I tried to remove it so I installed a new cylinder from Langs.

The fit was simply awful and I had to machine the new cylinder quite a bit to make it fit. It's been the only bad part I've purchased from Langs so far.

I'll have it all back together today and installed and wired.

I understand that all of the repro cylinders are terrible. I guess the casting or machining process is too complex/expensive for someone to make good ones.

It was pretty bad David. I had to remove a bunch of material to make it fit.

I would've re-used the original if it hadn't disintegrated.

And the key is a sloppy fit too! jb

Part of the problem is that the groove in the key is at 4 (at least 4) different locations, so whomever is making the cylinder would have to make 4 different types, instead they make one style that's "sloopy" so any key can fit.
Sad to say, the ones available nowadays are CSOs (Cylinder Shaped Objects)and really have nothing to do with the part they are supposed to replace.
"Well, if you're so unhappy with them, why don't you make them?" Because, while I know how they should be, I don't have the ability nor finances to do so!

I'm on the lookout for an NOS set

Got mine key panel put back together.

I sanded all the contacts, tightened everything up, installed the new (highly worked over) cylinder.

It's ready for installation and wiring this weekend.

Decent looking switch assy's are on ebay all the time. I got mine from ebay, and it's just fine. I cleaned it up, knocked out the two rivets holding everything together, painted it, and detailed all the lettering with a fine brush and white paint. Couldn't be better. Oh, I had to machine the rivet heads down to the original size before installing them.

Made arrangements for Friday to pick up a 27 T coupe that has been in good storage and not run since 1972. Look forward to getting to know my new car...."The Improved Model T". I'm mostly a brass era guy but really like the styling of this T. It has wire wheels...will need a new set of tires before it goes on the road. It's a Calif. car and looks very sound. Good interior and has bumpers which are a bit rusty. The paint is maroon and very presentable. I intend to get it running, fix what ever mechanics that are needed and enjoy it in our cooler weather.

I mounted an original 1911 bulb horn bracket and attached a reproduction Nonperiel bulb.



Honk! Honk!

As my rear is almost finished, double checked that my small drum to wire wheel conversion would fit. Drum itself fits nicely behind the wheel and plenty of lug stud stick out the front side. All looks good for now.

Totally revamped my fuel plumbing today. I was having fuel delivery issues when the tank was low. This ended up being caused by a filter I added inline. It was fine with 3-4 gallons, but lower than that there was not enough head pressure to push the fuel through the filter.

End result is a sediment bowl under the tank and a piece of line straight to the carb. No filter, no more problems.

Also discovered I have a coil not firing but I can't figure out if it is bad contacts in the box or a bad coil, swapping it around seemed to help before, but now it just seems to be dead.

Started putting things back on. Hood shelfs on, Took dads oohgah horn off, Put on hood webbing on drivers side.
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Spent the last week at nights changing the oil, intake to the Wilmo and buffing my 27 roadster after it sat under the carport with a cover all winter. It's still filthy but trying to get it ready to go to the Rod Run in pigeon forge in April 30 days from now. I get a hour here and there but that gives me enough time to get her ready. At this show you see more a models and later cars. In the last 25 years of going I have only seen 4-5 stock T s. So I want to take her up but still have to get the glands and gaskets on and carb and order some linkage to convert from the vaporizer to NH.

My son is getting interested in the Ts. He came over yesterday and watched and asked questions while I cleaned and set plug gap. Adjusted brake band and straightened and welded a couple cracks in fenders for TT project. He is interested in a 26 roadster that found me last year. Problem is he needs a touring for his two young daughters.

Got the pass.side cowl lacing finished ,installed alt. manifold bolts,Inlet and outlet, touched up the paint in a few spots on the engine, made my own inlet gasket. Painted the inside of the Rad.apron trim(bit rusty).

Today's project start cleaning and try to patch a little weeping on the radiator.

Just finished the build and the rebuild of a few (4) coil boxes with coils. For the 1914 Heinze coils I build a all new coil box. Usual Ford and K&W coils fit in the box too.
One of the setups is for using the master coil.
One Fordson Tractor coil box and one 1926/27 coil box to go.


Andre
Belgium

Nothing today but yesterday I packed the front wheel bearings & put my new Stutzman's on the front of the '20. Took her for a 3 mile test drive. Chilly...only 48 degrees. But the car ran good and smooth.

Got few parts for my 27 in from langs. Waiting on a few things still. I did get the oil changed and put in the new champion 2 piece plugs in and put the carb on last night after work. Tim

Finished cotter pinning my front end assembly and adjusted the caps on the steering linkage ball caps for a better and tighter fit. Ran out of fuel in the garage for heating, I only worked for a short time because it got down to 35 degrees in there. Better than outside though where it was barely 20.

I think I am getting down to pulling the head to fix multiple stripped head bolt holes.

I have to say, the old Canadian guy I bought this from kinda got one over on me. I so far have had to redo just about everything on this, I feel like I essentially bought was an assembled, but running, used up parts car. Live and learn---at least my wheels are solid though.

I just got home from a 14 mile drive in Betsy - I had to put the side curtains and winter front back on because the temperature was just above freezing.

Mark, your pickup is inspiration to me_---minus the shiny paint though, LOL. Looks good as always.

Mark
Is that a hybrid white colored grass in the background? Glad to see you are getting out in the T. Looks great.
Drive safe and often

Dallas the white you see is the pre-cursor to the new green growth that occurs in about maybe two or three months. The current stuff you do not have to mow or trim but come the green stuff you have to cut it de-weed it spray and put on some kind of growth material.

I have to confess to a bit of "false news".

While I did drive Betsy today, and it was cold enough to require the side curtains and winter front, there was not nearly as much snow on the ground as the picture suggests. That picture was taken last year a couple of days after a large snowstorm. I guess you could say I went back into my personal photo archives and pulled out a "stock" photo.

Apologies to those who thought that we had that much snow on the ground in Hillsboro, MO this morning.

Thats ok Mark, we have none here but tomorrow it will look like your photo.
I feel lucky I dont live out east. They may get buried this week

Yup, we're going to get what Dallas doesn't take. But even I am not in the worst of what's coming. This will be a coastal nor'easter, all of our MA, NH, VT, ME friends are going to be buried. Hey Ron, I got some T skies you can borrow.....

I've been quite busy with other projects but I have managed a bit of cleanup on a winfield carb as well as a bit more sketching on the tourabout.

Chadwick, that's a pretty carb. You didn't breath any of that aluminum dust did you?

Last night. Gears on.


Putzing with thrust washer pins today.

If I did I forgot, Im hoping I can get the carb all pretty and take it to Bakersfield and trade for what I'm looking for.

Took my Model T Snowmobile out today for hopefully the last run around town of the season. We had just gotten 7 or 8 inches of new snow.

Took the wheels off a 26 chassis I purchased. Found no brake shoes/ hardware in the rear. The early front spindles seem to not be on the correct sides (nuts left hand on left right hand on right), found that front and rear springs are 7 leaves, with one leaf broken. No big deal, as I plan on going through the whole thing and have extra parts. Was able to loosen many bolts, but didn't have square nut sockets to finish the job. Found it enjoyable to get started on this project and get my hands dirty.

LAST FALL WHEN I PUT TRAGURTIHA TO BED FOR THE WINTER I NOTICED THE OIL WAS NOT RUNNING DOWN THE KING PINS, TOOK A LONG TIME TO SEEP IN. IN REMOVEING THE PINS I FOUND THE PIN HAD FORD STAMPED ON THE SHOULDER,SMALL BUT THERE.THE GROVE DOWN THE SIDE WAS PLUGGED AND THE HOLE TOO.FUN JOB,CAN IT BE THOSE PINS ARE ORIGINAL? THEY ARE still in fine condition.not the least bit of play.the 95 year young lady i got the ford from said her 70 year old son was comeing for a visit,if I wanted to know the story of the car to come down and visit with him,he would tell me about everything.this lady is french and very hard to under stand.this car has a very interesting background,when i get the full story i will pass it on.that's what i did today with my model t.GREG

Loaded for Chickasha

Installed canvas seat cushions on the War Wagon. My wife sewed them up.

Looks like a lot of us had a busy weekend. One of my Model T jobs today was adjusting some wheel bolts.


I don't like the bolts getting too close to the brakes...


...so I adjusted them to a shorter length...


...and made sure they'll stay put.

My other T projects were shimming the wishbone in my roadster, and making a spreader to stretch my undersize tires so I can mount them. I'll get some pictures of that when it's done.

Not as industrious as many folks here.
Started all three T's and the A so I can keep things tight. Not really any work to do to them although I do want to put shocks on the A.

Starting collecting parts to build a T with my granddaughter who currently loves these cars. I hope to encourage her to take on the hobby at some level of enthusiasm. So far so good!

Well then, I did even less than you John, LOL. I cut off a bolt holding a battery cable holder on a old frame I have pillaged for parts.

At some point I will have to soak it in evaporust---but that's for another day. I spent the rest of my time after work preparing for the great Nor'easter storm coming through.

Two days ago I took my '23 fordor to an expert to fix it. Having trouble with time so I thought this is the easiest way. He is also running a car museum and told my car is one of two fordors in Finland. Hoping to get it back in two months.

I have promised to my girlfriend that when "foortti" is done, wedding is coming. She have now waited for 9 years

Today I finished my stretcher and attacked the first of the too-small tires.


I'll leave it like this until after I get back from Chickasha. The forecast is for 80º+ on Sunday and Monday, so those will be good tire mounting days.

Last Thursday I rolled into SoCal from Colorado..After coffee and a donut Friday AM we headed to Calimesa..My sister has a 1926 T Touring in her barn ..She bought it 10 years ago because ,like me ,she likes Model T's too...After visiting up in. CO. she said she wanted me to take it home to my place because the roads are more T friendly here..It hadn't moved in 9 1/2 years and had a measurable amount of dust over the whole car..I shot a video of the opening of the barn doors ,you can hear chickens crowing in the background,,So we dubbed the theme of the day Barn Find....Up into the trailer she went ,,along with extra parts,, wheels ,,a few happy tears from my sis...
I headed home Sunday early AM ..13 hour later we rolled into my driveway,Montrose CO...Monday she made her Colorado Debut out into the sunshine,,then into her new home....
I took lots of photos on my iPhone but try as I may cannot post them even after I thought I reduced them enough...
I've always had a Model T or a TT since I was 13yrs old in the 60's ,,I sold everything I had 5 years ago because of lack of storage ...I still looked at the forum 2 or 3 times a day ...Well I'm officially back now I guess...As soon as I can figure out how to post pictures I took I'll share them too...Carl

Steve. That's a brilliant tool you made.. Should work like a charm.

Well, actually it was yesterday. I replaced two broken floorboards in my '13 runabout. Kind of bittersweet, the bottom board and the top toe board carry a "F.B.Co" stamp indicating they are likely original. The lower toe board was probably a replacement, no stamp. I was going to re-do the top one, but I'll keep it since it also carries the stamp.

If you haven't thrown the old boards away, cut out the sections with the stamps and "dutchman" them into the new boards.

Aye Mark, me Scots ancestry would'na let me throw them away, dinna ye ken ? ;- )

I'll keep that bottom board intact, maybe later on I'll see about repairing where it split out around the control lever slot. I'll continue to use the top toe board with the stamp. The old middle one didn't have a stamp. It was broken at the slot for the brake pedal, and looks like a table-saw re-make. Too zealous relieving the board for pedal clearance.

Interesting thought about lamps and such getting mixed around on arrival. Sounds mighty logical !

I finally found the mystery miss. Intermitten miss was driving me crazy. Cleaned new day timer, installed new timer harness. The old harness was pretty ratty. Switched plugs around and coils. Of course I was thinking valves or springs. Turns out it was a plug wire end to close to the coil box. It would only arc once in a while. I heard it arc a couple times and went to back yard training mode. Turned out the lights in the garage. Bingo, problem solved. Purrs like a kitten. Im going to try to cover part of radiator this weekend and see if number one plug stops fouling.
Drive safe and often

Stopped raining finally! Went for a run .

Resealed my valve covers and started mounting the tool box on the running board.

>>>Kind of bittersweet, the bottom board and the top toe board carry a "F.B.Co" stamp indicating they are likely original.<<<

Screw those boards up in your shop with hooks on them to hang tools on or tack pictures to.

Not much today. I had a tail light cup someone modified long ago with a separate socket by ripping the metal apart to make it fit. I persuaded some of the metal back into place some, trimmed the jagged edges off, cleaned the socket area to bare metal, fluxed it and a socket and soldered into place. I now have a nice dual filament bulb /socket so I can wire up a Fun Projects brake lamp switch.

This one is for the right side, when I get the switch and light all wired up, I will do the same to my left side lamp, so I will have dual lamps/ brake lights for the idiots that don't understand old cars only came with one.

Last thing to do is a separate ground wire because it is on a wooden pickup box. I need to order some cloth covered wire first.

Did a couple of very small things to one of my T's today. Last week we took it on a tour and pulled it on an open trailer both directions to and from the start of the tour. The wind caused the upholstery material to flap at the top of the door panels on the touring. And as I was installing the top boot I pulled the draw string too tight at one end which pulled it back so I couldn't tie it at the other end. I was able to take a stiff wire with a small hook on one end and thread it in to the place where there was a knot in the string and pull it back to the proper place. Then I took off the door panels and took some duct tape on the back side to fasten the upholstery back in place and put the panels back. About one hour total work time. That's enough for an old man on a Sunday afternoon! It's about 80 here so kind of hot too.
Norm

Rebuilt a 5 ball carburetor. Turned a few float, replaced the brass balls, made a new throttle shaft and disc, sharpened the needle. Runs like a dream.
The float on the carb was disintegrating and there was too much play in the throttle shaft. The new parts made a big difference.

Rebuilt a 5 ball carburetor. Turned a few float, replaced the brass balls, made a new throttle shaft and disc, sharpened the needle. Runs like a dream.
The float on the carb was disintegrating and there was too much play in the throttle shaft. The new parts made a big difference.

This weekend was a busy one for Carl (1911 touring) and I. Saturday I drove Carl to work a nice thirty mile round trip with no issues. I'm getting to like thirty miles per hour.

Then after I got home I applied organizing skills in the engine wiring department, making it all nice and tidy. Today I worked on minor noise issues when driving and discovered the hood is the main culprit. The leather pads are almost all gone, time for new ones.

The Rusty coupe has withstood 6 Idaho Winters outdoors. The pine wood structure so far has seemed adequate. The screws for one door latch finally pulled out. I drilled the pine and glued in some hardwood dowels. I would have used hardwood on a more serious restoration.






http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/283627.html?1335009157

Steve Jelf . . . atta boy you dun did it right ! ;~)

The previous owner of Betsy had installed the oil pan petcocks in the wrong orientation. Today I finally remembered to remove and re-orient them during an oil change.

I was lucky enough to find a petcock with threads on both ends on Ebay, so I attached a small brass elbow to one end and clamped a plastic tube to the elbow to act as a sight glass. Opening the petcock allows me to read the oil level, and closing the petcock prevents oil loss in the unlikely case that the tubing falls off or starts to leak.

Same as yesterday. Trying to get this last wheel off!!!!!

Hot, cold, spray, hot, cold, spray, beat, twist, turn, hot, cold, spray, beat, twist, turn. swear

I'm not seeing how something threaded to my fine threads on the hub are going to free this up when nothing else seems to be working.

You might be surprised! The pullers available from the vendors thread onto the hub cap threads, then have a clamping bolt that really clamps them down onto those fine threads. First, put the axle nut onto the axle backwards to protect the end of the axle from getting mushroomed. Then, jack the opposing wheel off the ground, tighten the big bolt of the puller onto the end of the axle, and hit the head of the big puller bolt a few times with a hand sledge (a regular hammer is too wimpy). After a few blows, see if you can tighten the big bolt on the puller a little more, then give it a few more smacks. At some point, the big bolt on the puller will be loose, at which point you know that the hub has released its grip on the axle taper.

took the rear axle out of Henry with the help of a friend this weekend. We hope to have it completed sometime soon. We'll also need to finish the bearings on the front axle.

I sent this one down the road, to the Military Aviation Museum in VA Beach.









It will be a stablemate with the Hucks Starter Truck I built for them and the Ambulance I put together using a Gus Bryngelson-built body. I built the floorboards differently to provide a flat place to mount the machine gun on a turret. They are having a replica of a M-1917 Browning made, which was one of the ones used on Light Patrol Cars.

Mike that looks awesome. Now you just need to get in and out of it a bunch and drive it like you stole it so it'll be a little more weathered.

Very cool nice car. Tim

Crunched Atwood Castle door restored. Lamps shown are Atwood Castle #120A (teapot handle) on left and Atwood Castle #120 on right. Guess which had the damaged door?
Regards,
Scott

Hey Mike,
Got mine done this month. Brothers from another Mother?

Tearing down my Tudor motor and found two broken magnets on the flywheel. Also a crack in the block. More work with this project.

Finished installation of Fun Projects Coil Box Back/Bottom Panel Kit and 4 rebuilt coils by Ron the Coilman.

Robert Brough,

You are pulling on the brake drum and not on the hub. Did you try the original puller??

Andre
Belgium

Well, back at it, recovered from Chickasha and the day is warm. Partially took apart the coil box to replace the old contacts with John Reagans new ones.
Also started sealing up the radiator before repair. We'll see how this stuff works.

Moved some parts out of workshop to other buildings. Tearing down T chassis that was a wagon frame. Salvaging usable parts. Took the wife to town last evening for supper and for icecream in the next town. About 25-30 miles round trip.

Rained all day, did get one side of radiator painted.

Rained all day, did get one side of radiator painted.

George, I would be afraid that the Flex Seal would seriously reduce the heat transfer from the tubes and fins. I've read where some recommend a certain black radiator paint that is supposed to transfer heat better than regular enamel. No experience myself, just passing along information, FWIW. Dave

Was hoping to progress the rear axle rebuild this weekend. Went to test fit the U joint plugs I bought from Langs and they just fell in the holes. The holes have been enlarged and tapped for 9/16 18. Found a couple of bolts the right size and made them fit. The slots I cut are not very good but good enough to work. At least peening the U joint pin should be easier now.

At long last, I finally got all those tough tires mounted on the mostly new wheels and put them on the car. I took it out to sit for a portrait, but I'm not delighted with it. Maybe the lighting will be better tomorrow.

Looks great Steve. You do nice work. Sounds like it was alot of work. It has a great look now.

Finally got time changed the intake from the hard to start vaporizer to a the one piece Wilmo intake and NH carb. Changed oil and put in repo champion plugs, plug wires and it starts and runs nice just need the linkage conversion to come in this week so I can go for a ride!!!_ Tim

I finally repaired cracked mounting holes for horn. New wire and mounted. Now its not under the seat. My wife about jumped out the 1st time I hooked horn up under seat. She didnt know I hooked it up.

Looks great, Steve! The redbuds here in Hillsboro are close to their peak bloom as well.

Hope your issues with the roadster are over and you get in a lot of quality driving this year.

Steve, if memory serves me right, those are older Firestone tires right? I'm sure you'll keep us informed as to how long, or if, they stay white. I won't be mounting mine until late April. Since there's a theory of tubes causing the browning once inflated, I'm at least gonna try to "seal" the inside of the tires with lacquer spray. I don't think that'll hurt the tubes, and I'm gonna do a test run on a tube anyway. I'll spray the tube direct and see if there's a reaction to the lacquer.
Other than that, nothing done today other than air up the '20s tires. Too much on and off rain today.

Mark, there are other issues, but I think they're all of the kind that "don't hurt the runnin' of it none." I think I'm ready to do some driving.

Tim, you're right. I believe these tires are New Zealanders. Here are the date codes:

David Stroud, I used the FlexSeal on a small area where the seepage was, not the entire rad. I used Rustoleum on the steel parts only, core was masked, the core will be getting lacquer since lacquer will dissipate heat where enamel insulates.

Whew! You had me worried there for a bit George! Dave

Gee, Steve. With those tires, we hardly recognized ya!

Went to the local Model A "Winter Blah's Meet" yesterday and bought a rear end for short money. This way can rebuild and swap out of one in runabout instead of having the t tied up for a bit. Anyhow took off one of the radius rods and stuffed it into my 2010 escape.

From yesterday, pics of painted radiator, core got lacquer ,sides enamel and cleaned a reshot coil box. Day late posting.

Tore into the new to us 20 roadster. The engine is an unknown as we bought it at a used car dealership and were told the prior owner is having "memory problems". I wanted to see what the bottom end looked like since it looked like aluminum pistons through the spark plug holes. Compression is 53 lbs across all 4. All the rods have scoops and the caps look like fairly new babbit. .030 shims on all the rod caps. I was able to remove one .003 shim on #1 and #2 rods, but #3 is too tight with one removed. I'm going to ignore #4 as it gets more oil and looks like a "bear" to remove. the cam bearing looks new with a green visible base. The pistons are all aluminum. There are strange markings on the crank I've never seen before. Any ideas on what they mean?
Then I replaced the copper fuel line that was leaking at the tank. Put on a piece of steel brake line. Total cost with "O" rings was $4.73

I replaced the Ash floor boards and replaced the old tattered vinyl interior. Looks nice!




"Happy Motoring" - Humble Oil...

On those numerals, the rebuilder may have marked the journal under size after turning that crank.

I agree with Dan, looks like the crank was cut 0.010 undersize. Nothing to be concerned about.

Thanks! I hadn't thought of that. I assume M is for Mains, and R is for Rods. For an unknown engine to me, it seems pretty tight. I suspect a rebuild with few miles on it.
Peter, I love the looks of the brass era T's. So far I've only found the black ones.

Got back to the Fordor rear spring today. It had a definite lean to the pass. side. Took the spring off thinking to flip it end for end thinking the road crown would at least level her out if I couldn't find another reason for the lean. The passenger side shackle was froze and was a real bugger to get off. The spring bushing came out with the shackle and got buggered up by the time it came off. No problem, I just pulled out a spare from my stock. But when I tried to insert the shackle, no go without reaming. Again, should be no problem, I have a box full of Model T specific reamers that passed down from Dad. However, no reamers the right size could be found. Funny, I was sure I had used one when putting this car together. Well, Harbor Freight no longer stocks them here in town, and the machine shop that does all my T work had a set of the Harbor Freight reamers, but the size I needed was broken. Remember, Harbor Freight tools are OK for occasional use by hobbyists but do not hold up for their type of use!
Anyway, my only remaining option was to fall back on ebay. I found a nice nearly unused full set of Cleveland reamers for $129 and they arrived Friday. In a short time today the spring was back in place. The Fordor now has a driver side list but I still enjoyed a nice sunny spring drive today.
Cannot ask for a better day than one when driving a T!

Maybe take the spring leaves apart and swap alternate leaves around to even out the lean?

Put Inspection cover on the speedster engine

Added an ABS steering wheel, with robertson screws, to the Canadian roadster.

Adjusted hand brakes on the roadster, then spent most of the day reducing shop clutter. I think I could work full time sorting and putting away and still not get it all done.

Got a piece of maple given to me to make the top bow centers for Barney ('25 roadster). Yep, not the usual wood, but the price was right! (drive by his house and throw it into the pickup!).
Did I mention that I'm CHEAP? ¢¢

Now what to do in April???

Got the headlights working. Installed a new choke/mixture cable (Model A carb). Put the new crank pulley on. Ready for some spring cruising.

I got my OF carb on the Roadster. Runs real good! Also finished stripping the block from my Tudor, ready to go in for boring.