Hub cap repair... Copper solder paste?

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Hub cap repair... Copper solder paste?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 01:21 am:

I have a post-July 1911 hubcap that has some cracks in it that need to be repaired. Has anybody used any copper solder paste?

Or can give me any advise?

Or know anyone who can restore?

Or who has any of these available?

Hmmm ???









: ^ )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 06:45 am:

Brass can be welded. Probably cheaper to just find a better hub cap. Lots of machining time after the welding.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 07:11 am:

That would be tough to fix. Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alan Woolf on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 08:06 am:

Original hubcaps aren't always easy to find in good shape. Years ago there was a good article in the AACA magazine about this very topic. Tom Reese wrote a technical column and while working on the restoration of a 13 T he had trouble obtaining a good original set of hubcaps. 13's have a unique hubcap this is not easy to find. His solution was to get an old hub, screw the hubcap on the hub, and silver solder or braze the cracks. On his hubcaps he also repaired the hex on the cap. After adding filler then it is just a matter of cleanup and polishing.

It would be easy enough to find a later scrap hubcap to practice on. It is a tedious process but worth the effort on an early T.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 08:24 am:

Bill Glass does a nice job on these. He did 4 of 'em for me, don't know if he still has time to do that stuff what with his families thriving craft beer brewery/bar business.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 09:18 am:

I thought I was the only one who knew what a '13 hubcap looked like! The '13 hubcap is on the far left!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 09:25 am:

Snyders sell's reproduction hubcaps for the early T's.
I bought a set for the later T's and was surprised how nice they were for a reproduction.

But it goes back to how 'original' you want to be.

Decent original hubcaps for any T are getting almost impossible to find. 10-20 years ago maybe. but these days its really hard. That's why I bought the repo set and they were pretty nice.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 10:06 am:

You can repair the cracks with Harris Safery Silv 45. It will give a good color match. You will then have to clean out the threads inside with a thread file or maybe a v shaped scraper.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan McEachern on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 10:58 am:

Keith- Ted is correct- clean the brass and use silver solder. The silver solder will pull into the crack and be almost invisible once cleaned up. Practice on another cap 1st. There are multiple U Tube videos on silver soldering. I think I would clamp the cap on a hub with good threads using a hose clamp and then solder it up. You can purchase the Harris silver solder on e-bay or welding supply.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 03:28 pm:

Dan-
That was my thought.. put it on a hub with a hose clamp around it and solder it together. I was concerned about the color of silver solder, which is why I was looking at the copper solder.

Ted-
Maybe this stuff: ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harris-Safety-Silv-45-1-16-Silver-Brazing-Solder-1-Troy-Ounce-w-Flux-4531-Kit-/262240254860?hash=item3d0ebcbb8c:g:-BgAAOSwKfVXHlxK

Alan-
Do you have a contact number of e-mail for Tom Reese?

Tim-
Do you have a contact number or e-mail for Bill Glass?

John-
I have a set of reproduction hubcaps. At first glance they look okay...



Until you get them side by side...



Thanks,

: ^ )

Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 05:02 pm:

That's the stuff. Your local welding supply should have it also. You will need the correct flux.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 05:58 pm:

Ted-
Is the flux that comes with it in this auction the right type?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Saturday, March 04, 2017 - 09:02 pm:

Yes, remove the residue with hot water.


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration