Still going back and forth on fixing my block cracks. Before someone asks it's an '15 block, so to me it's worth saving. Unless someone has a good June 15 block without cracks to sell. If I stitch it, I need to figure the material thickness before I order pins. However,I have an oven and a homemade "sandbox" large enough to put a t block into for preheat and slow cool. I am now considering method and filler material, which is dependent on the type of cast iron was used.
For those that know the difference is it Gray, malleable or nodular. I assume it's a version of grey bit figured someone in here would know. I'll post some pics once I get started.
I had asked earlier in the week about epoxies and may still go that way if I find that the upper head area is too thin.
It's gray cast iron.
Ted, that was my assumption after I did a spark test on a scrap head.
Thanks for confirming
If it it freeze cracks under the water jacket, we use 1/4" Irontite plugs to stitch them up. A simple process, a little time consuming. You can get what you need from Goodson. More permanent than adhesives and much safer for the block than welding. When properly finished, nearly undetectable. Opinions will vary.
for freeze cracks i just solder them. v them out then you must sandblast or it will not tin.use a good asid core solder .to hide it use a coarse sandpaper grit down then use a hammer that will give you the cast look.charley
Nodular cast iron wasn't invented until the '40s.