We are rebuilding a friends rear axle. We are at the point of installing the universal joint. We are using one of John Regan's modern pinion bearings and have that all set up. The drive shaft is in the tube and with the universal in place with the pin, the drive shaft is a little stiff, when attempting to turn it by hand. I know that this can be changed by increasing the clearance between the universal flange face and the new bronze bushing. We have checked the bushing to be seated more than once, so it is where it is. So should I increase this clearance? Will this clearance become tighter when the driveshaft temperature changes? Will it get tighter? Thanks Mike
I always have to ream the new bushings to get the driveshaft to go through.
Pardon me, I was talking about the front bushing flange face. We have the bushing barrel sized to fit the driveshaft and that is fine. It is just when the universal is installed, with the pin that the driveshaft is pinched. Mike
OK I misunderstood. I have used John's non - adjustable pinion bearing, never tried the adjustable one. With his non - adjustable bearing you have to remove maybe .060" from that flange face using the Stevens spot facer. I can't imagine that you have the pinion gear deep enough in the rear to give proper contact with the ring gear unless you do the same.
Why not take a little off of the back face of the U-joint instead?
Always willing to learn.
So, it sounds like I should increase the clearance here. I do not have a 'Stevens spot facer', so I'll adjust the universal flange. I would image that this clearance should be small, a few thousands? Mike
The MTFCA axle book says to shoot for 0.002 to 0.003 inch clearance.
You need to check and properly set the pinion depth, then face off whatever needs to be faced off in order to place the U - joint accordingly.
Assemble the rear axle temporarily with some white lithium grease on the ring and pinion gears. Rotate the driveshaft 4 times so that the pinion can mesh with the ring gear all the way around. Take the rear end apart and look at the pattern in the grease. It should be dead silent, you should not feel the gears meshing, and the pattern needs to look right all the way around.
I don't have photos of that but someone else posted them here.
I'm with Mike S. on this one. I faced the bushing beyond what I thought I needed but it was still a bit tight when pinned it so I knocked the new pin out and pulled the U-joint. Not wanting to pull the tube, I kissed the back of the u-joint on my disk sander. The NOS u-joint face was rough as a cob! I I took it down to a clean even face and everything was perfect. Regans bearing handles the thrust with the thrust collar/clamp so extra clearance at the bushing is no problem.
Well.... I took a little bit off the universal flange and it now rotates easily by hand. My next question is, Is there a better way of peening over the universal pin? I have done a half dozen of these and always have had trouble. Some times one end peens over well and doesn't leave enough on the other end. Any suggestions on a good way to finish this job? Thanks for the help, Mike
Mike, I pein one end before installing the pin. That end is supported on a bucking bar when the other end is peined.
Allan from down under.
What is something commonly available that you can use to support the peened end if you don't have a bucking bar?
Also to peen one end first without damaging the pin shaft do you put it in for example a vise?
Put a bolt in the access hole as a backer and peen one end of the pin. Take the bolt out, turn it half way, put the bolt back in as a backer and peen the other end of the pin.
Repeat as needed.
: ^ )
I've always used original Ford script front bushings. Usually, the bushing doesn't have to be reamed, but the face usually need facing. Don't forget to put the slot on top, and drill the hole after it's in. I peen the pin like Keith says.
I do like Keith said. Remember to put the head of the bolt used on a hard surface to act as a backing/bucking bar. The plugs use a straight thread.