This thing runs great! I can't wait until it stops raining enough to go for a drive. The Kingston five ball is called out on my car's build sheet, so it is a blessing that this one runs so well with the original Jacobson Brandow coil unit.
Agree, great carbs.
Oh you are making me jealous! Stan's got mine in his carb intensive care unit and I want to play with it.
Great coils, too.
RV did the coils. Bill Glass rebuilt the carburetor.
Those 5 balls are great when tuned correctly. I'm running one on my '10 and love it!
I'm jealous! I've been trying to get one for the restoration of my '09 for 18 years!
I have a 5 Ball but it has a threaded section instead if the
flanged 2 bolt pattern that the T uses. Stan reckons it could be off a Tractor or similar from the early 1900's.
Royce, how does Bill do the valve? Not a Grose jet I assume.
It has a more recent Holley needle and seat.
Can't quite picture it but I guess the float arm somehow depresses the needle into the seat. I don't see how the needle is held steady, though. I am reminded how the original set up worked, the needle (with attached ball) being captured by the threaded hole in the float arm so that when it closed on the seat it was held in a vertical position.
I think Bill's system does about the same thing as the original design. The main thing is to have the weight of the float PULL the needle off it's seat rather than having the head pressure of the fuel PUSH it off. There is just not enough pressure to lift the needle if there is any stickiness to the fuel.
Somebody (not Bill) was doing them using a Tecumseh carburetor needle and seat and gluing the seat in with J B weld. The best thing about that system is that they are easy to get out and replace with something that works.
So I just got a PM asking how I do it. I should have a photo but I don't have time to look for one right now. It's no secret, I'm pretty sure I've posted it before.
I use two 3/16 hard brass balls on a brass stem.
I form the original seat with a forming tool, reduce the size of the lower ball until it will pass through the original arm, adjust the float height by moving the upper ball on the rod and lock it in place. That allows the same hollow nut to be used as the original system used and does not require any machine work in the bowl.
This system -- that I have been using for the past few years -- leaves the original arm as part of the system as opposed to replacing it and makes it easier to adjust the fuel level if necessary.
A picture would make it all make sense.
There are several systems used by other restorers that work fine, this is just what I designed. Bill's system works fine.