Using needle nose pliers instead of a reciprocal valve grinding tool on old style valves seems to work well. Any reason this should not be done?
Original Ford valves have that double hole in them for grinding the valves. The Needle nose pliers are fine for that. However...
Original Ford valves are made from two pieces of metal that are joined together and the heads have been known to pop off the stem, which sends the top of the valve into the cylinder and bounces around doing damage...
I'd opt for stainless steel valves.
: ^ )
Yes, leaving those two-piece valves in is looking for trouble down the road--they like to separate back into two pieces!!
It will work, but you'll regret it. It takes quite a bit of back-and-forth action to grind and lap the valves, and you'll get awfully tired!
Better to find a piece of wooden closet rod or other round thing, and drive two finishing nails almost all the way into it. Then you can spin it between your hands and do a proper job.
If you replace the valves, as suggested above, then a round stick with a suction cup on the end will do nicely. There are several kids' toy dart guns that shoot a projectile that will work just fine.
Autozone and Oreillys have the little wooden tool with the suction cup for just a few dollars.
They typically have them on the shelf.
Here's a picture of one that came apart on me. I made it into a key ring. I did grind them all with needle nose pliers. When it busted I didn't know that was a common occurrence, this was around 95 so no forum and nobody around to tell me, so ive still got the other 7 running.
Oh, I'm not saying that's a good idea, if you have the money replace them. Another one could do that at any time.
I cannot see a purpose for using valve grinding compound. If a valve is ground at 45 degrees and the seat is ground at 30, 45 and 60 degrees leaving a 45 degree center line on the seat will seal. With the application of valve grinding compound to the two precision surfaces will leave scratches and otherwise destroy the precision surfaces. If both surfaces are ground at 45 degrees, as is frequently the case, a good seal will be short lived and valve grinding compound will not fix anything. I had a valve and seat from a stationary engine ground and they ground the valve and seat at 45 degrees and it leaked, I went back and complained and ordered it to be ground correctly at 30, 45 and 60 degrees, then a perfect seal was attained with out any valve grinding compound. I don't know the history of the purpose and use of valve grinding compound. If two surfaces are precision ground what is the purpose of introducing an abrasive to destroy the two surfaces?
I think you'll agree the Ignacio did not start out with precision ground surfaces, as most of us do not.
Besides, even "precision" does not mean "perfection". The final lapping is most times useful to account for the last bit of misalignment.
What Peter was talking about if interested. From the 1924 Dyke's Encyclopedia.
Dave Gingery said to me and my buddy once "If it works, that's the right way to do it."