This 22 Iv been working on pulls to the left kinda hard while driving it. Hard enough to where you cant take your hands off the wheel and your holding it back from drifting to the left. Iv replaced all the front wheel bearing and races. I double checked to make sure I didn't have a bearing to tight and I don't see anything else going on with it. Any idea's?
Parking brake dragging?
Have you triple checked the alignment? I had a similar issue and was able to correct it with an alignment.
Im not really sure on how to do an alignment on a T. How would I check it?
Tyre pressure okay? Also try swapping the front wheels left to right. After a day of driving my T my left leg aches as well as my right arm trying to keep the car in a straight line. Driving on the left hand side of the road doesn't help either.
Alan from Australia
And while on the subject of the front end, Are those Zerk fitting supposed to be here? I believe the car is a 22 with a 25 engine.
Feel the rear brake drums for over heating, if they are the same temperature then it`s in the toe in. front wheels should be almost equally apart.the Front of the front tires should be about 3 sixteenths closer than the rear of the front tires.
Will, nope, zerk fittings are not supposed to be there technically. I use two yard sticks & a clamp, & a tape measure to check my "alignment"..i.e. "toe-in". Very easy, very effective. Got mine right on spec that way. Only other thing would be if your wheels camber is way off & I'm not sure if that would cause it or not.
After taking a second look at your pics, your left front tire indeed looks to be low. Might be a part of the problem along with toe-in.
By looking at that picture your front tires are toed way to far out. Drop one of the tie rod ends, you want the tie rod longer
The front end was originally lubricated by oil. Oil runs down to the lower spindle bushing by gravity, but grease won't when greasing through the top of the spindle bolt. But if you drill and tap for a second zerk in the middle of the spindle body between the bushings, then the lower bushing will get enough
And the toe in should be between 3/16" to 1/4".
Check to make sure that your front spring perches are correctly installed with the "boss" towards the rear as shown here, this will result in 5 1/2 degrees positive caster on each side:
If the perches are correct, measure the caster on both sides of the car. The axle should tilt back about 5 1/2 degrees and each side should be the same. If the angles are different, the car will pull towards the side with less positive caster.
If the caster on one side is off, get a BIG wrench and bend the axle at the location of the spring perch until the angle is correct.
Had the same problem, finally found that the rear axle yoke was not centered.
Look for bent spindle arms. See if one has a different bend than the other.
Also see if the camber is the same on both sides. You can view camber by standing in front of the car. It's the outward tilt that makes the wheel lean out further at the top than at the bottom. The wheel should lean out 3" more at the top than at the bottom. Park your car on a LEVEL surface. Hang a plumb bob over the outside edge of the tire and let it hang almost to the ground. Measure how far the plumb bob tip is from the edge of your tire. Do this on both sides. Ideally, each side should be 3". You're looking for that but, even more to the point, you're looking for a right side/left side difference. If it's off, you probably have a bent axle or bent spindle.
Make a diagonal measurement from the center of the nut where the spring perch is bolted to the bottom of the front axle to a point on the rear axle such as the spring perch or the point where the radius rod is bolted to the backing plate. The measurement should be the same in both directions. If it is not, either the spring is off center or the frame is bent. This situation would make the rear wheels run out of line with the front wheels. Drive on a level surface such as a parking lot and have someone follow you to see if the wheels track. A bent crankcase where the universal joint is to one side could also cause this condition and could also lead to a broken crankshaft.
Other things which could cause this problem would be camber, castor, or a spring leaf broken on one side causing the car to sag to one side.
Will. try it this way ;
Your front axle could bent. One too many curb crunches!
Anthonie's method of toe-in checking is an excellent one.
Parking a T on shag carpeting, now that's brave!
Will, this doesn't help with your current problem, but may help in the future. The car is either a '24 or '25 with the high radiator, much different than a '22 which is a low radiator car. The '25 engine may well be correct. Chassis wise, not a lot of difference, but quite a bit body wise. Dave
While toe-in needs to be correct, if incorrect it will not cause a condition where you pull consistently to one side.
If everything is seated as it should be and tight and you find the issue to be the front axle out of alignment due to being bent, a competent (and willing) truck alignment shop can bend it back to spec.
...or a bent spindle, as I mentioned above. I believe it's worth checking camber, as I describe above.
Concerning what David said about the high radiator. I've seen cars which were called 22 with low radiator and others with high radiator. The ones with low radiator also have a straight windshield whereas the one with the high radiator has a slant windshield. I think the confusion comes with dating the year first sold vs. year model. Apparently some cars must have come out late in the year with high radiator and slant windshield but were first registered as 22 while others might have been sold in early 1923 left over from 1922 and they were registered as 1923 even though 1922 model.
I have a 22 with low radiator and straight windshield and another of our club has a 22 with high radiator and slant windshield.
Here is my 22 roadster
Here is Dan's 22 touring. The maroon car on the right. He also extended his windshield posts because he is very tall and doesn't like to bend his head when driving.
I have a lady coming from the DMV on Wednesday to look at the car and talk to the (Model T Expert) ha ha. The car was registered as a 22 in New Jersey. But the engine has a 25 number. The first number on the reg looks like a 7 and the DMV isn't sure. The owner tried to tell them that it was a (1) but they choose to give him a hard time over a slight misprint. I agree that everything on the car screams 1925.
Im going to try the tape idea to fix the pull. I will let everyone know how I make out with it.
Jerry, might there be a problem with your 3 inches measurement for the camber. When I built my speedster, I re-bent the dropped axle so I had 3"camber at each end, only to find that it should have been 1.5" each side, for an aggregate difference of 3". It looked way to pigeon toed with 3" each side.
I could be wrong.
Allan from down under.
The tape and measurement is the best way to go unless you can find someone that has an original tool for that job.
I'm not guaranteeing that this is the issue, but it is the least expensive thing to start with. A bent axle or spindle is also possible but require much more effort and $$$ and may not be needed.
Just my $.02 and not always worth that much...
You may be correct about that. That's what happens when I try to use my memory!
Will, the last serial number beginning with 7 was the evening of Wednesday, July 11, 1923 (#8 million was at 10:19 PM). The first eight-digit serial number beginning with 1 was the morning of Tuesday, June 4, 1924 (7:47 AM). If the car is a 1925 (radiator apron, two-rivet hand brake quadrant), the first digit obviously is 1. All 1922 serial numbers begin with 5 or 6.
Alignment is here: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG104.html
Allan, you're right. It's 1½" per side, 3" overall.
(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on March 14, 2017)