This is a how to change out worn brake lever bushing and cam. It was easier than I thought it would be and took about 30 minutes. My brake lever bushings on a 1913-14 differential housings were remarkably worn 'wallered' out and needed replacing. These are the 2 rivet early kind, the later ones were one rivet.
The problem is to replace the bushing you have to take the cam and lever apart. But 1) You have to cut off the cam to take it apart. 2) The lever but not the cam is to be reused. The reason you have to cut the cam off is the only way to drive the lever rivets out is to get the lever on a drill press and/or vise to drive the pins out. That is done by drilling the head until it is ready to collapse, then driving it out with a punch.
Cut off the 'sail' part of the cam using an angle grinder parallel to the housing to not damage it. Mine was loose and could be lifted a bit giving a little room to cut it off.
Cam now cut off.
Revealing a very worn out bushing and housing.
To be continued...
Drive out the bushing with either the new bushing or a bushing driver tool from a vendor.
The old brass bushing was very worn.
Old brass bushing and new steel bushing side by side.
File the edge of the new bushing a little to make it easier to start driving in.
Drive it in with a hammer. 5 pound sledge will work. A superficial crack formed due to the wear making the disk metal thin. Behind this is substantial and not cracked so it should not be a problem. Perfect.
Oh noooo! Don't cut my rivet heads off! Actually that is probably good advice. Drilling with a drill press so that the peened rivet head collapses when punched is preferred.
Drilling rivet head.
Now use a punch to drive the rivets out.
All out. You are (nearly) home free.
To be continued...
Old parts on the left, new parts on the right. However, I did have to change to a brass bushing on the second one because the steel one was too tight and just mushroomed when I tried to pound it in.
You did it backwards.
So I changed to a brass bushing for this 1913-14 housings which was much easier than the steel one. I had already installed the differential on the car and I pushed it in from the back side which is less distance to travel for the bushing and it went in very easily. If the fit of the cam is too tight then a 1/2 inch drill bit will ream it out and the cam will go in and turn easily.
Last is a picture of a very mashed up steel bushing that just wouldn't go in easily. Maybe because for a 1913-14 housing brass was intended for it.
Reaming out with 1/2 inch drill bit.
New installed cam and lever.
Mashed up steel bushing.