Picking up a 27 T rolling chassis in the morning. The family does not know the history of it, but from some of the newer looking wires and in inline gas filter, I'm guess that it was running in the 80's or so.
Engine cranks by hand very stiff and slow. I'm not going to keep this engine and hogshead, but want to pass it on and it would help all involved to know if it runs and how it runs. So I want to attempt to get it running, without a complete teardown.
Presume drain any existing oil and flush or soak with some sort of thinner fluid, but that's just my guess. Any shared experience or tips on walking through this process would be greatly appreciated. Now is not the time for me to learn after the fact about left handed threads or secret compartments.
Thanks in advance. I'll hang up and listen. Photos and video to follow if helpful.
Change the oil with 5W/30. Securely chock the front end and put the rear on jack stands. Put the brake handle in neutral but don't lockup the emergency brake. Lever will be straight up vertical. Your engine will be easier to crank this way as the clutch is sticky after years dormant. When the engine runs and warms up, pull the lever back and stall the wheels. This forces the clutch to free up and it will be much easier to start next time. Before any of this, be sure to adjust all clutch linkage correctly. There have been several threads on this with pictures and info. Very important. Also be sure there is oil in the rear end.
Milt Webb's tips don't mention it, but I will. Lose the filter. I'm assuming it's a modern one, not a glass bowl. It's not as bad in a 26-27 car as in earlier T's, but it can still be a problem.
I disagree with Milt on the float valve. The Grose jet has earned a reputation for causing problems, and I've had Viton tip needles get stuck too. I believe this is one of those places where original is best, and that's what I use. If it leaks, fix it. I'll give details on that if needed.
Make sure the gas tank is clean enough for new gas. If you have any doubts about that set up an auxiliary gas line from a gas can for the first start. That way you will at least know it isn't a fuel line issue if the car won't start. As long as you have compression, the valves are probably not stuck and the car should start up without much trouble assuming the commutator is clean, the timing is right and the coils are good. I just started one that had not run since 1960 without even having to jack up a wheel. I didn't even bother to change the oil first as I wanted the oil to warm up before I drained it out.
I agree With Val I have an old gas tank that came off a lawn mower I hang it from the radiator support rod with about 1/2 cup of gas in it If it cranks that gives you plenty of run time to listen and learn about the condition of the motor.
Put a table spoon of MMO into to each cylinder and hand crank the engine over daily for three days. Lubes the dry cylinder walls and loosens up the rings.
From the 2012 forum but still a good read;