I put on a new sediment bowl, managed to strip the sediment bowl threads that go onto the fuel line. It is a copper fuel line. Not sure what to do now.
The good news is my tank repair worked and it doesn't seem to be leaking gas any more :-)
If my memory serves (it often doesn't), the sediment bowl has a 'snout' on it into which the fuel line slips, and the outside of which is threaded for a nut that squeezes a felt (old) or rubber (new) doughnut that seals the connection.
If I understand your post, the threads on the outside of the snout are stripped.
Am I right so far?
Your answer will help me and others to make suggestions.
Remove the sediment bowl from the vehicle and fill it with gasoline.
Place it in an open space and attach a long gasoline soaked string to it.
Use a match to light the string on fire and run away from (not toward) the sediment bowl.
Purchase a new sediment bowl!
If that does not align with what you want to do you could attempt to redo the threads, go to a slightly large thread, or find a gasoline resistant sealer.
Remember it is not under pressure in a T
I have a lot of used brass ends that hold the screen if this is the part you need, Bob
If your talking about the sediment bowl that screws under the gas tank, you can unscrew the part that screws into the side of the sediment bowl which has the fuel line connection thats stripped.
If you still have the old sediment bowl unscrew the fuel inlet piece that's on it and put it in the new one you bought. They should interchange. The old originals will interchange as I've done that before with mine.
I would try that before you buy another one.
The snout is stripped. I have an original sediment bowl that has worn out everything. The screen is loose inside, valve handle broken off, etc.
Agree with John and Robert. Be sure to insert the lead gasket between the two pieces.
In installing the lead gasket, be sure to grease it first; if not, it is liable to split.
Buy a tractor shutoff valve with glass bowl and screen from Tractor Supply and you will be good to go.
The replacement snout is on its way. But I checked my local Tractor Supply and am unsure if the Massey Ferguson or International they have in stock will work. They say 1/2 inch inlet 1/8th outlet.
I'm intrigued now....about the Tractor Supply glass bowl.
The old style sediment bowl on my car is leaking and I hate not being able to see in there like you can with a glass bowl.
Does anyone know which of the Tractor Supply bowl filters is a direct plug-in? They have several on their website.
Tractors don't normally travel down the road at highway speeds so I would be a bit cautious about hanging a "glass bowl" sediment bulb below my Model T where 'road debris" or other foreign objects could possibly be kicked up from a tire but then, that's just me - there's a reason they were brass and/or iron and NOT glass.
Don and Steve,
The only use of these tractor sediment bowls that I've ever seen was on 26/27 cars with cowl mounted tanks. Maybe others put them underneath too however. I'd be leery about the glass and road debris as well...
Been running a glass sediment bowl under my 21 touring for some 30 years and never had a problem.
I have one on my 1924 touring. It's been on there for 20 years or so.
Almost certain the sediment bowl that will work is the one for Ford tractors. I have a 54 Ford NAA and it will work. I'm thinking the T gas tank threads are 1/2" NPT. IF that is correct the Ford sediment bowl will fit. Or any other bowl with 1/2" NPT threads will work.
Ask for a filter & bowl for a Ford 8N or 9N tractor, and it will fit.
It has the added feature of giving you a "get home" supply of gas. The way it works is that when the valve is opened 1 or 2 turns, it takes the gas from the top of a 1" snout inside the tank. This helps to avoid sediment.
When you're plowing the back 40, and a long walk from the barn, and run out of gas, you open the valve about 4 more turns, and it takes that last inch of gas from the bottom of the tank. There's a screen around the pickup to catch most of the sediment.
As for the glass bowl, by my reckoning the bottom of the engine is almost a foot below the bottom of whatever bowl you have. I don't see any way the glass bowl could drag on anything, with the possible exception of your running over a large branch and having it lever its way up to hit the bowl. In a case like that, whatever is there will probably break off anyway, so why not use an inexpensive and readily available part?
Just my opinion.....
The Tractor Supply part# for the 9N is 0236986. The Ford number is 2NNAA9155B just for comparison /cross reference--and is also on the package. I just bought one.
BUT! I believe they have changed these for some reason, and the specs are on their website--and other online sources too. I was using an old post that Ron Patterson did about using this, his had the 1/2" NPT thread and carried the same part number. Mine did not. Mine had a 3/8" NPT thread requiring a bushing adapter---no big deal in my eyes though.
This is not a plug and play type of deal either, as it is set up for a 1/4 inverted flare line on the outlet, not a compression fitting like the original. You could cobble of assorted adapters to get back to the compression fitting if that's what you wanted to do.
I took a different route. I very carefully drilled and tapped the body for 1/4" NPT, thus allowing me to use a 1/4 NPT to 5/16 hose barb (and thus to 5/16 line). Having it pipe thread opens up the endless possibilities of adapters. But you have to be super careful as the casting is thin and diecast, but I did it successfully. I like that I can see the clear bowl, I am not afraid of it breaking as it is thick, but just in case, I will get a spare. This is one modification I don't mind. I know Larry "original" Smith would disagree though, LOL.