I have cleaned the internal contacts of two Ford starter switches and neither function.
I must not be holding my mouth right.
Try using your foot. Just saying.
Ground? Bad battery?
Sanded frame and ground strap. Battery charger indicates: 6V battery, fully charged.
I'll have to try the modern iron and jump with 12V.
What kind of condition is the starter in? Should be simple to disconnect the lead at the starter and put a test light on it, then press the starter button to see if it lights. At least then you will know it is getting some sort of current to the starter.
I recently had a problem where I got no churning from the starter when I hit the switch, no headlights, no horn, and no coils buzzing. Battery and starter switch, and wires at the starter and firewall showed 6 volts. I tried everything,including holding my mouth right. Nothing.
Climbed in the back of the truck, tapped the battery terminals and heard a quick buzz of the coils. I figured out that the connection at the terminals was bad. I'm not good with electricity, but you might want to start at the battery and work forward.
Is your battery dead?
Bob, he said the batt is fully charged and shows 6V, so shouldn't be the battery. Never thought though, maybe it's a dead STARTER!! I'd be pulling it and bench testing it.
Check and tighten all connections. I had a dead starter issue and when I grabbed and put torgue on cable going to starter, it would turn over. Kept trying to tighten the nut on the starter, but later found it was ground terminal at battery. When I put tilt on the starter cable, it moved the entire connection a little and was correcting an issue far upstream.
The T is negative ground so you would be putting a twist on the positive cable. Of course if you have positive ground, which will work too, that put a different spin on things.
The starter has been "rebuilt" by a starter shop. Jumped it direct with 12v and it growled over a few times. Didn't "jump out of the frame" as expected.
Included the switch in the circuit...nuttin'...
Haven't pulled the fully charged 6v battery yet
to check the possibility on a bad cell.
Checked the battery (6V) and it floated 4 balls in each cell.
Should I have shimmed up the contact lugs with extra insulators?
Check your all battery connections and clean them to start narrowing down the potential issues.
Jump your 6 volts directly on the starter, it should spin with some gusto, you shouldn't need 12 volts. 6 volts reading in a battery is meaningless if it doesn't have 100 amps behind it.
Are you getting any clicking or a feel that maybe the switch is OK, but the starter is not? When I jammed my Bendix into the ring gear, nothing worked, but you could hear the starter wanting to click, just no place to turn.
Sounds like the starter needs to be rebuilt again but by a knowledgeable person. Everyday shops ... well, you know.
Like Eric and both Tims' said, start at the battery, take off the cable ends and clean them up, and then start looking around with a meter further on down the way. If you happen to have one of those green knobbed battery turn offs I would take that off, and throw it in the woods. Lots to check before the starter, good luck, Jim
My T was hard starting even after I rebuilt the transmission, coils, and starter motor and put in a new Bendix. I also put in a new starter switch and cleaned the contacts behind the ammeter and cleaned all the battery connections. It wasn't until I replaced both battery cables that the problem was completely solved. The battery to starter switch cable had a nick in it which was the cause of that one being bad. The starter switch to starter motor cable was just old. Everything I mentioned needed doing especially the transmission and coils, Bendix gear and starter motor, but it was the cables that completed the transformation to a really good starting T. Check your battery cables. Changing them out could solve a lot of problems.
I don't think a "T" starter switch should click, unless you have a relay in the circuit. It is just a big terminal assembly between the battery and the starter motor that you stand on.
A problem I found early on when I first got my car, I'm quite sure the starter had been rebuilt, the starter post was broken off the soldered connection inside, there is no solid mount of the post just the solder joint, tightening the cable to the post if the post moves you my have broken the solder.