I hope to soon have the rearend ready to put back in my car. When I removed it I took the shackle apart on one side and removed the shackle bracket from the brake backing plate on the other side. Should I reassemble the shackle to spring and remove the mounting bracket from the other side before putting the rearend back under the car?
Put the rear end under the car and then use a couple of 2x4's to get the spring in position. The shackles should almost slide in if you do it correctly.
Dave has the answer, but i'll expand on it.
Bolt the spring in the car. Then get the u-joint slid in and bolt it up to the engine---just a few turns on the bolts so things can move freely.
Next, make sure you loosen the spring perches on the backing plates, just leave the nuts on by a few threads.
Then jack up the rear, but as Dave said, put 2x4 pieces between the axle tube and spring eye. As Dave said, the shackles will at a certain point almost drop right in...obviously one shackle will go in real easy, but to get the second one in shouldn't take alot of effort. Start tightening up the perch nuts, but still not tight yet..leave about one turn to go.
After that, put the full weight of the vehicle on the axle (jackstands under the axle) and tighten up the perch nuts, and u-joint housing retainer bolts. Obviously the shackle plate nuts too, and cotter pin everything.
Don't forget to fill the rear with lube.
OH, and hopefully you fit the shackles to the spring and perch bushings first. Usually when you press in new bushings in, they reduce in diameter and they need to be clearanced first--usually by reaming to proper size. Installing the rear in and finding out you didn't fit those bushings isn't really the time to take it all back apart.
I just went through this myself. Im attaching a photo oh how i did it. I was lucky that the leaf spring lined up.what you dont see in the photo is the 1/2 x 4 inch scraps of wood i placed ontop of the axle housings for the spring shackle to slide on until the leaf spring bolt went in the hole to be mounted to the backing plate where the brakes go.
Ok thanks everybody.I will remove the spring perch from the backing plate and reattach both perches to the spring, loosely, before trying to reinstall the rearend.
I wish my means of support was a little more steady. I have it on two jackstands, one under each frame rail, without the cross piece. I wonder if it would be safer, if my supports are not as steady as they should be, to remove the spring, put the spring,radius rods,drive shaft, and housing together, the reinstall the whole thing?
No. The spring should already be in the car. The rear axle, drive shaft, and radius rods should be assembled already and installed as a single unit. Have the perches already installed on the backing plates, very loosely. No blocks should be needed.
Loose perches should allow the shackles to reach the springs.
What Steve said is how I always did it on 3 cars, worked fine.
What size and threads are the perches? The threads
on one of mine need cleaning. I'm pretty sure that I don't have a die big enough.
Do as Dave suggests with the 2x4 blocks. You do not need to loosen the spring perches. The wheels should be on when you do this. If the shackles won't go in add some weight to the back of the car which will spread the spring until you can get the shackles in. Put in one shackle and then add weight until you can get the other in.
It is quite an achievement to take a differential out, rebuild it, and put it back in. Mine is back together again and should go back in tomorrow.
I like to loosen the perches, cause you can't get the proper angle for them if you don't. I also like a spring spreader. Makes the job a piece of cake. After you get the shackles into the perches, and the u-joint in the back of the engine, then, tighten the perches. Next, if you have a T with two piece shackles with oilers, be sure to get the back oiler on top, the one facing the front of the car.
The Harbor Freight lawn mower and ATV lift for 79.00 on sale would lift the rear end as pictured exactly to the right height with safety moving up or down a fraction of an inch if necessary.
Why is there so much space on those shackles? Are they from another application?