Steve, until I acquired the special wrench for those bolts I used a 3/8 inch drive universal socket and extension. Using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, I applied all I could pull. With the specially designed wrench, the same effort. I don't think there is a torque specification for this, so good and tight is the trick. Since they are safety wired they won't back off/
HUH !?!? Martynn Vowell asked me the same question. Mike Bender's Tips Vids show he torqued but didn't give a spec that he likes to us. I know the saome numbers but not that one.
I follow John's rule. Do them up as tight as you can manage. I have a modified ring spanner for the purpose, and have even given it a tap or two with a hammer just to make sure.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
If Ford didn't have torque specs back then, i guess all we can look at is the tool they used, and apply it to the weak/strong guy on the line who used it to attach the components. Looking at the size of the crankshaft bolts, i tightened the hell out of them with some locktite and safety-wire, if anything ever fails inside my engine, i seriously doubt it would be because of these bolts.
George, that's why I asked here. I've never seen a number. Using my home made version of the Ford wrench, I just get them as tight as I can. With the wire on them, they're not going anywhere.
I usually stop turning the screw right before it strips out.
Between a friend and I we just did those bolts on his engine, I on the thin side he's about average build. Using the Ford wrench we both got the bolts to about the same place, there was no more turning them, tight. Using about the same length wrench for doing the mains, when I did a recheck using a torque wrench it was around 80 fp for them.
Thanks Steve for asking for me, but I went with this standard chart, I figured it had to be around 30 or 40 ft.lbs...they're soft bolts, so no extreme torquing such as 65 ft.lbs, I'd be afraid they'd shear off...I'm pretty sure the double lock wire will keep them from wandering off anyway.
I used this standard chart...
5/16th - 15 ft lbs.
3/8th - 30 ft lbs.
7/16th - 45 ft lbs.
1/2 inch - 75 ft lbs.
Those bolts clocked in at .4375 or 7/16th, so I torqued them at 45 ft.lbs. Then double safety wired them...
may not be the way you're supposed do it, but if one set is good, 2 just has to be better.
Like my fancy spring compressors?
Harbor Freight, a dollar each...bought 6 of them...handy things.
Martin, I'm not sure, but from here it looks like you have the top middle flywheel bolt saftied backwards. Kind of hard to tell though, I may well be mistaken. Dave
So, are you saying that using the typical offset flywheel wrench you give it all you can ... "strong arm" torque? Or are you using a modern wrench ... and if so ... how long is the handle?
Mark, the offset in any wrench will make it want to crank off the bolt head. An open end wrench is worst. A socket is much better, but some are difficult to fit on the bolt head, depending on the shape of the rear main cap. A ring spanner [read box head wrench?] will work in most cases, if you can get/make the correct angle of attack.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
David...they're safety'd in both directions...that's what I meant by double safety wired. Those two come for completely different holes in the bolt head from the other. I doubt very seriously that those bolts will ever come loose.
I used the Ford wrench to do mine and was told to make them tight ! so I did and stripped them, had to heil coil them.
So the Ford wrench is the one that is bend 90 degrees and the open end of the wrench is bent 90 degrees? From the picture it looks like the safety wired bolts can be removed with a deep socket and an extension.
No, a deep socket won't fit in where the wrench has to reach.
This is my home made version of the Ford 5Z-210 wrench. I think a crow foot would also work.
That's what I have. Thanks!
No it's like the photo above my first post. Open end. This will be my first time so I hope it works.
yep Robert, I have a lot of tools and the Ford wrench fit better than anything I had - indeed, just right. Tight, but don't over tighten them :-) When I really cranked on em, I stripped them. Just good en tight, good enough I think - good luck. It was my first model T trans also.
You guys make such a big deal out of an easy job. Yes, it's difficult to get a normal wrench in there. As I recall, I use a 3/8 drive short socket and a breaker bar, and tighten it real good. You don't need to torque it, Ford didn't. Remember, you are going into cast iron, and if you get carried away you are going to pull threads, and ruin a perfectly good flywheel.
I remove the rear main cap and use a torque wrench and deep socket. I don't have my cheat sheet here but I think it is in the 65-70 pound range.