Slightly OT: Stewart Speedometer Cable

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Slightly OT: Stewart Speedometer Cable
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 01:54 pm:

Purchased a Stewart Cable off eBay and can't seem to get it apart and wonder if anyone has any tricks that worked for them. It appears to have a clutch end like Model T's but the other end isn't a slot but key shape? I'm assuming this has a chain but am only guessing. both ends rotate freely of each other but refuse to lift out at all. I'm able to introduce penetrating oil to the key end but not the clutch end. Other clutch ends I have would allow penetrant to pass but I can't even pass .023 welding wire through this one so this end won't allow any access at all. Welcome any ideas or suggestions at all.

Thanks,
Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Layden Butler on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 02:25 pm:

Picture shows fitting from a speedometer on left, then 2 types of chain/cable fittings that mate to speedometer. On right is the expansion end on the drive end of the cable. I think you just need to use more aggressive solvent on the grease and the expansion part will slide out allowing the solvent to be poured into the cable. Hope this helps.



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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 04:48 pm:

Little more soaking and twisting and I was able to get the clutch end to pull out or at least what was left of it! Think the seller cleaned up an extremely rusty cable to make it look better than it actually was. I had hoped to use some of the chain on another cable and later restore this one. If I ever get this apart and cleaned out and the cable doesn't fall apart I might be able to salvage it by using Lang's modern liner kit. Lesson learned, cheap isn't always a good idea.

Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nick Miller on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 06:41 pm:

If you will note that the chain has a great deal of play when turning it clockwise and counter clockwise. If you will reverse the direction, it will lengthen one way from the other. After separating the chain from the removable end, clean it out with a wire and small strong cloth and solvent. Reassemble the chain, pull it to the cable with a wire adding the grease as it goes. Then pulled out long enough to reattach the removable end. OR Call and/or deal with Russ Firstnow (SP?).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 07:00 pm:

Before I write seller about my disappointment in this item, based on this picture am I wrong in assuming I would receive a brass housing?

Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 07:24 pm:

Howard-
This sure looks like a brass flex shaft. Is it?

If it is brass, it should be brass outside and steel inside, so a magnet will still stick to it.

Pictures can look different from reality. Always ask. Never assume.

-Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 07:34 pm:

It's steel and full of rust, something I thought I wouldn't be dealing with based on this picture.

Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 07:37 pm:

Brass paint ? I'd be all over the guy !


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 08:00 pm:

Okay-
I had to look it up:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-T-Speedometer-Cable-Stewart-Antique-vintage-/11234 0817581?hash=item1a2808d6ad%3Ag%3A4gEAAOSwCU1YzvVv&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=p69eBbvVC 2q3eBDmHsBbrJoZioY%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

The seller never said it was brass.

For a complete serviceable 50" cable with links (minus one end that is available from the vendors) I'd say that $75 is not a bad price.

Howard, I'd clean it out, get an end, paint it black (or gold if you want) put it on and use it. Otherwise, put it on the classifieds here. If you don't want it, someone else will.

Just my 2

-Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 08:50 pm:

To my eye that is a picture of a brass housing, steel is NOT yellow. He also didn't say it WASN'T brass as pictured. It needs more than just an end, it needs to be able to be disassembled without having the rust damage break through the outer housing and I doubt more than half of the links will be usable.

Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 10:02 pm:

OK guys before you bash this anymore, I'll chime in. I sold this cable. The cable has been in my garage for at least 20 years. It was pulled off the shelf and photographed with my iphone; there was no cleanup of any kind, and I took the picture in my garage about an hour before listing it, put it on eBay with a starting price of $35 and a Buy It now of $75. I figured the housing was worth that, and since I couldn't even tell if it was a cable or a chain drive I couldn't speak to that. It never crossed my mind that the picture looked like brass, but I sure as hell wasn't misleading on it. It's a nice, flexible, solid housing. I actually had this on my shelf as a spare housing because it was nice and flexible, and the housing seemed really nice and solid. I've had crappy, stiff and kinked housings and this isn't one of them. I took a picture of the ends so someone could see the style of ends, said I didn't know if it was a cable or a chain, and the pictures show it was really gunked up. That's a BIG hint you're dealing with 80-100 year old caked up grease and need to soak it a long time!).

The tracking shows this was delivered the morning of the 23rd (today) about 11 am. The post saying it was crap was about 5 1/2 hours later. I know if I was trying to disassemble an old cable housing like this I'd soak it in something like lacquer thinner for a few days, maybe a week or more, until it would come out.... it can take a long time to soften gunk in a housing that's 68" long and decades old, and to think you could soak it for a couple of hours and pull it apart in a few hours is nuts.

If the buyer had contacted me when they opened it and said 'hey, I thought it was brass!!" I'd have sent a return packing slip and a refund immediately and just asked him to send it back the same way it was sent to him. Instead this guy has spent his time bashing the item on the forum, saying I was misleading, insinuating I was dishonest, NEVER ONCE contacting me until a few minutes ago, and from the sounds of it, from his impatience, has made it impossible to remove the remaining chain or cable that is inside, which means it is now a piece of junk housing with internals that can't be removed. Why should I refund a part that the buyer has apparently ruined, and that the buyer never asked a question about until AFTER he ruined it?


Keith; I listed 2 cables, one 50" that you can see the stewart end and a chain link on, and one that was 68" Here is that link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112340823980?ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m156 1.l2649



on eBay, ASK QUESTIONS!!!! I would gladly answer any question honestly and timely.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 11:25 pm:

Gary, Have you ever restored professionally? Cause I have! I've worked on 1,4,8,12 and 16 cylinder Cadillacs, Packards, A, B, T, and V8 Fords, Shelbys, Pierce Arrows, Hemi's and 500k Mercedes and countless more so don't knock my ability to disassemble a cable properly. Enclosed are 2 pictures. Notice the "actual" color. Also notice the heavy pitting. The second shows I did NOT break the chain due to in experience, It simply separated because it was rusted down to 10% of it's original thickness. It takes heavy exposure to the elements for a LONG time to rust that badly internally. There is no old grease holding this!

Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Friday, March 24, 2017 - 12:08 am:

Dennis;

I'm not going to get into a shouting match on this.

If you had asked a question, you would have received an answer.

If you had contacted me upon receipt and said you thought it was brass based on the picture and was disappointed it was steel it would have been refunded immediately. Instead you chose to disassemble it and it sounds like you rushed the process.

The cables is around 100 years old. I had no way to tell what it is like inside, anymore than I would know if an engine, transmission or rear end was good before disassembling it. It's the same thing as buying a transmission and finding out it has a cracked drum; you don't know until you take it apart and check the parts and you can't tell from just looking at it from the outside.

I don't agree that the pitting on the housing is severe, it looks pretty average to me for an unrestored housing.

As far as the inside piece you posted, I do agree that part looks bad. Then again, if you had just contacted me immediately when you realized it was steel and not messed with it I would have refunded it based on the brass/steel issue and it would not be your problem.

Anybody that hires out as a service provider can consider themselves a professional; that doesn't make them one. I am not a pro, but I have been an active hobbyist for over many years.

I do want to thank you for raising the issue of the picture color though; I have proactively emailed the person that purchased the other cable housing and asked them if they are expecting brass or steel so I can address any concerns they have immediately, before they try and disassemble (and potentially ruin) the other housing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Layden Butler on Friday, March 24, 2017 - 12:18 am:

My 2 cents in the way of an observation. I saw this cable on ebay and the other items that were offered by the same seller, who I now know is Gary. The other items offered also had the same yellow tint.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Howard D. Dennis Byron, Georgia on Friday, March 24, 2017 - 12:41 am:

So you can't agree on the fact that my picture shows rushing had nothing to do with this part breaking, it was rusted beyond all salvaging? No amount of experience, time spent or techniques could have saved this clutch it was simply rusted junk. You keep clinging to your excuse that I damaged a valuable usable part because I failed to ask a question. Had it been what your picture seems to show it to be there would not have been an issue because brass doesn't rust. Since you offered the other buyer a second chance based on the brass appearance you must see it as well but just not in my case. I was trying to do the right thing and make this work as your auction said no return. I should have just filed a complaint with eBay.

Howard Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Friday, March 24, 2017 - 01:28 am:

Howard.

As I have said over and over, if you had contacted me right when you opened the package, saw it was steel, and said from the picture you had thought it was a brass housing then yes, I would have refunded it.

You made the choice to keep it when you started to work on it.

Yes, you could have filed an eBay complaint, or you could have simply emailed me BEFORE you worked on the part and we would have resolved it.


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