26 starter problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: 26 starter problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Friday, March 24, 2017 - 11:06 pm:

Finally got to play with the 26 roadster I got last fall. I started it last fall. Let it run about a minute because hoses were rotted off. Starter worked fine. Tried to start it today and the starter worked and then the engine kicked back once. Now the starter switch gets hot and starter does not turn. Tried to short it across switch. Starter did not turn. I started car with crank and let it warm up. It started pretty easy for sitting a long time. Only ran on 2 cylinders till I cleaned all coil box wires. Running on 4 now. Back to starter. What could the problem be? Any advice?
Thank you


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 09:59 am:

With the backfire by the engine on starting, likely the Bendix gear in now stuck in the flywheel gear.

Engage the clutch lever to put the T in high, and rock back and forth by pushing and pulling on the rear wheels. That helps to un-lock stuck Bendix gear from the flywheel.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 10:58 am:

If you could crank it after the starter wouldn't work, the bendix gear is not locked. However, something else might have happened to the starter. It could even be the switch. I would first try a jumper cable around the switch and see if the starter will work. If so, you have a switch problem. I would also check the battery cables for good connections at each end and no corrosion at the battery. If those all check out and the starter still doesn't work, remove the bendix cover from the back side of the hogs head. You should be able to move the gear forward to engage in the flywheel by rotating it on the spiral toward the flywheel. There is also a spring between the shaft and the hogs head. Sometimes that spring will break. Remove the bendix and see if the shaft will turn freely. Also check that the shaft is straight. Try the starter switch and see if the starter will spin without the bendix. If it doesn't spin, when you hit the switch, or bypass the switch, something is wrong with the starter itself and it will need to be rebuilt.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Brough on Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 11:20 am:

My first thought was the jammed Bendix as well as I have gone through that twice with my 26/27. But, correctly pointed out, if the engine turns and starts without the starter, it is not jammed.

So, it's one of the three. Battery connections including ground. Starter switch. Or the starter. Should be able to trouble shoot in order and id the culprit.

Bood luck with it and report back what you find for the next guy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 11:28 am:

Thanks all for info. Will check all suggestions and see.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Mills_Cherry Hill NJ on Saturday, March 25, 2017 - 06:42 pm:

I'll tell a story (you old timers don't beat me up on the absolute specifics)...

The starter NEEDS to SEE somewhere about 6 volts or more at the starter stud, based on something used, has decent compression, typical starter shaft bow, etc. Get less than that and it just silently stares at you or may just lurch for a millisecond and grunt.

After the stud, you have the buss connector inside the starter that has a bad habit of breaking contact when you tighten the starter stud nut...but we'll save that one for later.

So..anything that uses up voltage from the battery to the stud is B-A-D. (This is also why small 12 gauge jumper cables don't work to bypass starter systems on a T...there is too much resistance in the little wires and that turns into wasted voltage too...just a wee bit but it shows how a wee bit can seem like a mountain)

You say the switch gets hot. I guess the foot switch? It either has dirty inside contacts...or it is shorting to the housing. (A short would drain the battery) So my bet is dirty contacts and it is NOT worth the time to try a modern repro as they are pure junk from the outset but the originals are fairly easy to clean up as a rebuilt.

Your best friend can be an analog volt meter...even a cheapy one. Your 6 volt battery should be up around 6.5 volts IF fully charged Go from the POS terminal to ground and check voltage. If less than 6.4 or so you have a battery issue before you even start. If the voltage is at or above 6.4, now you need a buddy or have a good elbow. Test from the POS terminal again, and have the starter switch engage! Voltage drops like a rock instantly? Your battery is shot...sorry.

So let's say you have 6.4 or so, now you really need a buddy....check the voltage from the starter stud to ground while someone pushes the starter button. Still up over 6 volts? Dead starter...or broken stud to buss bar connection inside the starter

Given you have the right sized wires...the remaining culprit is the switch itself. You need a torch as you have to soften the bend over tabs after you remove the switch from the frame. Try it cold, they'll snap off if not on removal they will on the rebend. There is nothing to the switch internals once you slide it out. Where you have dirt and dull on the contacts...you have additional resistance...it radiates heat...it robs that energy from voltage. Shine 'em up...spray them with NoX or something else designed to keep contacts from oxidizing after polishing and put the switch back together.


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