Good Day all. The door won't close on my 23, it has been that way since I got it. The guy I bought it from said "it just needs adjusting", I'm thinkin maybe a little more than that. It appears the opening is too tight. Do I get out the porta-power? Model T's are all new to me, so I come to the PRO's. What kind of info do I need to get to you all?
No porta power unless you like the sound of breaking wood. I think the 1st thing I would do is consider shimming the center body /frame mounting bolt- this will tend to spread the door opening open at the top (if that's where its too small). Put a shim between the two mounting brackets and see if that helps. Hard to diagnose without more details. latch, hinges etc.
lets do some pics & is this a roadster or touring. charley
I agree with Dan McE, Get someone to help you then remove the body bolt and use a pry bar to lift the body a bit. Have your friend watch how the door fit changes. You can then figure out the size shim you need to use.
Thanks guys. I like the response to the porta-power. It is a roadster. I will get some pics and measurements today. I took the door off yesterday. It is tighter at the top. Hinges are good the latch works if you force the door into the opening.
If the door is tight at the top, that might mean it is sagging.
Sagging can be remedied by by shimming the hinge toward the bottom of the door opening.
If you have ever shimmed door hinges in your home or kitchen cupboard hinges, you'll know what I'm writing about.
The entire body is built on a wood frame. The sheet metal parts are nailed to the wood. First thing to check is the condition of the wood. Is it rotten? or have termites? If the wood is good, is it warped? Check also the condition of the hinges whether bent or loose where mounted. If all the above are good, start with the radiator and cowl and the hood fit to them. Shim as necessary to get them to fit properly. Then work your back by experimenting with raising or lowering the body at the various frame mounts. When you get one part to fit, shimming the next part will sometimes change the fit of the other one which used to fit. So you need to go down one side and then the other from front to back until you get everything to fit. Do all this on a level surface such as a garage of level driveway. If the surface leans, it can also affect the fit of the doors. Even the top can cause things to move. When you have the top up there is a strain which is not present when the top is down!
Don't get discouraged. It CAN be done.
Charley, subject line is "HELP! 1923 Roadster door won't close."
Again guys, thanks for the info the hinges are perfect, all the wood seems to be good, but its funny you should bring up starting to shim from the front because the hood doesn't line up well either. Will start that process. What do you all use for shims? Will have some pics tonight.
What I used for shims was small pieces of an old tire casing with holes drilled through for the bolts. You will usually need the most around the area of the cowl. This is the area where the rear engine mounts are located and gets a lot of weight and torque in this area. And the torque is toward the right side of the chassis. So that is where most of the sags occur. You might need two thicknesses of tire or you might need something thinner. You could even go to several layers of sheetmetal such as cans. But whatever you use, it needs to be strong enough that it won't just fall out as you drive the car.
Belting material works well, has fabric in it so the rubber doesn't just squish out over time. Farm supply place should have some. You just need a scrap piece, so ask around!
I get belt material from local gravel pit. They always have pieces laying around and its free.