What is the easy way to change exhaust manifold gaskets?
what are the best gaskets that will last to?
Rings and glands !!!
Agree with George. Steel rings and copper crush gaskets. The rings keep the exhaust manifold from developing a sag. Adding some Hi-temp RTV doesn't hurt, especially if the block has any rust pits that would allow leakage.
Perhaps if the industry hadn't developed those 3 in 1 gaskets, maybe there wouldn't be so many warped manifolds today?
I used copper two piece from langs with glands. Tim
Mine was warped but not real bad so I made undersized rings and used rtv
The style "gaskets" Ken just gave the link on is what I've switched to. Little more money, I think they're great.
I use glands with rings. The rings will keep the manifold from sagging and the rings will compress to fit each port and compensate somewhat for imperfections in the manifold and block. The 3 piece would be ok for a good block and manifold surface, but the glands should still be used. The problem with a sagging manifold is that you will always have one or more ports out of alignment which will not allow the free flow of exhaust. If it gets bad enough, it can actually make the engine run rough.
Check the ports in the manifold with a straightedge. If they are all aligned, use the manifold, but if out of alignment, either straighten the manifold or replace it. It only costs about 100 dollars for a new one which looks just like the original one and it will also have good threads for the packing nut.
Thanks guys I think I`m going with a new manifold,and Ken Todd`s idea, that cost more, but I`m tired of changing them. Thanks again guys!
I have no doubt the gaskets in Ken's link are fine. But they cost more than twice, almost three times, the price of the original style, and I don't understand how they're any better.
Rings and glands to seal it up---a little RTV (ultra black) on the intake rings to seal up any vacuum leaks.
I have read on here, that some guys do not like those newer style copper ones Ken posted above because they do not seem to give and crush like a stock copper ring does. I don't know, but as Steve points out, the stock ones are cheap and work just as good. I have had zero issues with my stock rings and glands
Get two additional hold down clamps and cut one end off. Use these to hold one of the manifolds on while you get the other in place and the other two clamps on. Then just switch the two cut ones out to the regular ones.
If you have 3 or 4 hands you won't need the tool pictured by Chad, but if not, it is helpful.
Sometimes with even those its a pain. I found it best to mount the exhaust manifold first, but that's just me.
I certainly can't imagine trying to do it without those modified hold downs though. I saw Steve Jelf made a homemade set instead of sacrificing 2 hold downs. Those I pictured above were pretty rough--I picked out the two worst looking ones I had. The shiny paint makes them look better than the are.
Kind of another reason I like the type that Ken Todd gave the link for...pop 'em in the block, they usually stay put, and on goes the manifolds, you can secure it easily yourself with no help. Done it on two different engines already. I think the last one took maybe all of 5 minutes to do by myself.
Tim, that speaks to the first question asked on this thread - "What's the easiest way ?". I used those "expensive" gaskets too. I have an idea they could be re-used perhaps more than once.
Steve, a major help in fitting the one piece copper rings is the elimination of another set of separate components to fall out of place during the juggling act it takes to fit the manifold. They are heavier duty than the two piece crush type and can be reused. As always, the half clamps are a boon to holding things in place during fitting. Apart from all this is the fact their purchase will aid the Australian economy, seeing they are supplied by us.
Allan from down under.
I take 2 of the clamps whole and turn them vertical and put a little pressure on the exhaust manifold then put on the intake. It's a pain to get everything lined up but once I can get 2 clamps on right then I turn the others 90 degrees and tighten them up.
Am I the only one who can put on the exhaust and intake manifolds by himself with no special tools or help? You have to hold it just right, tighten the front and rear clamps finger tight, and then work in the intake manifold and center clamps. Works those down finger tight as well. Then let go and tighten everything up!
Maybe I'm just that good :
Now I'm going to go against the grain here. I use the green paper ones from Snyder's:
They're cheap, and if your block is pitted around the exhaust ports (as mine is), they will actually compensate for that, whereas the stock crush rings will have a difficult time sealing. Use the paper gaskets with gland rings!
Keep in mind that they are only one-time use. If you're going to pull your manifolds off again, make sure you have new ones on hand! They're cheap enough to keep spares around.
I've used them on many Ts for many miles and have had no trouble with them. In fact, if your exhaust manifold is warped, you can exclude a couple gland rings (as few as possible), line it up as best as you can, and still get a good seal.
I still prefer the stock crush rings, but if they won't seal on your block due to rusting and putting, the paper gaskets could save the day.
Well that is a thought, I`ve helped Ken Begley a time or two. NOW he`s moved off to Dallas, since then I`ve done two of my own. I bought the cute off clamps from the parts house. I didn't think much of them, I guess I`ll make a pair of my own. The set that`s leaking, has only got a couple hundred miles on them, or couple years. I don`t remember witch set I have on. I do know their leaking. My manifold could be warped. I think I`ll order a new one and go from there. thanks again for everybody's help!
The ones that Ken showed the link to are the Best ones. Cameron's type shown allow the manifold to sag and not be aligned to the ports. My opinion should only be used with a bent manifold that will not align properly. I've used the split rings but have seen where the seal can be burned thru where the ring doesn't fit tightly together at the ends. That's why the type Ken showed is the best design.
Cameron - am right there with you on everything you said. You're spot on.