Finally, after 12+ years of ownership, we got to take the '25 Canadian cut off pickup out for a spin. The furthest it had been driven previously was a 1/2 mile when we first bought it--and I am amazed we didn't die or get injured with all the stuff I have found wrong especially in the past few months. Then life got in the way, and it sat and sat, while I did get sparks of interest here and there, I was working alot on other peoples project during my free time.
I have some real issues I need to hammer out, this thing doesn't really run that well in comparison to my doodlebug.
I guess there is a reason they put tops on the coil box, my #2 coil kept jumping out of place, and consequently made it run really bad. Box was redone with fun projects kit, but that particular spot just seems loose.
Thinking I may have to go in and redo the shims on the rods I just did. But the knock comes and goes at times so I don't know, moving the spark lever doesn't seem to help any.
The timer is an Anderson from about '06 vintage and doesn't seem to make a difference where I put it with the spark lever. I have the same timer in my doodlebug and it it functions just as it should in that.
I need to figure out if I should pull the hogs head or not. I need to adjust the brake band big time, but I noticed the cam on the hogs head is pretty worn out. I don't want to end up getting it too tight because of the worn cam, but I would like to stop.
I think the best remedy is make a physical list and start going through it, I am sure it will be daunting.
Chad that is a nice looking pickup. i am sure you will enjoy it once you have the bugs ironed out.
I think you will find that the rear fenders are mounted too low if you ever put a load in the deck. It is an easy fix with a couple of redesigned rear mounting brackets.
I was taken by the tyres. The fronts look like 4 x 4.40 Goodyears on straight sided rims. If that is so, the rims are likely to be Chev., and the lug nearest the valve stem will be slotted. The heavier look suits a commercial vehicle.
Drive the pants off it!
Allan from down under.
Good eye on the tires, they are indeed old Goodyears that have Made in Canada on them.
OK, so school me on Chevy and T wheels. I went and took some pics of both sides. At this point, if it fits I'm good, LOL. But I would like to correct things as I go.
Am I assuming the drivers side with the gentle curves in the rim is what you are referring to flat side?
The pass side is definitely different. The lugs are squared off like another rim I bought here on the forum that was sold to me as a Canadian rim. See below.
The rear fender bracket has been an issue. I made these, but will have to redo them. I think that is also the reason the gap at the splash shield exists.
When I built them years ago, I was flying blind so to speak and thinking to much like a street rodder and getting a good fit around the tire vs what it should just be like on a T..
That is great news!
See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/244227.html?1323379048 for additional information on the Chevy rims. It shows both the 30 x 3 1/2 as well as the 21 inch balloon rims. For the Chevy the rims had an open lug because their valve stem was closer to the lug than on the Fords. You can use them on the Fords -- but you need to either relocate the valve stem hole in the rim (recommended) or relocate the valve stem hole in the felloe (not recommended but it works -- but then the rim only works on felloes that have been modified.)
Again, it is great that you have the car running.
Hap l9l5 cut off
A knock that occurs at sort of half throttle is quite likely centre main
A knock that comes and goes sort of randomly could well be end play of the camshaft
It's a good looking little truck Chad.
Great news that you have a driver. I'm hoping to be there soon myself.
Chad, they look like straight sided tyres. This means there will be a split in the rim like 21" rims on later T's. I think I see the split in the first photo. These rims are made to be collapsed at the join when fitting new tyres. Straight sided tyres are run at lower pressures than clinchers and don't suffer the same problems with rim cuts.
Chevs had 23" clincher rims which were a little wider than the T model equivalents. Then they went to 23" split straight sided rims shortly before going 21", As Hap posted, the lug next to the valve stem hole is slotted so the rim can be lowered over the lug. This is a reliable guide to identifying Chev rims, and others used the same. They will go on T wheels, but you need to re-drill the valve stem hole in the rim to line up with the hole in the T wheel felloe.
Hope this is clear,
Allan from down under.
Allan, Mine are 21" split rims. I will look, but I am pretty sure none of my rims have the split wheel bolt hole in them. I "think" I have a Chevy split wheel on a shelf somewhere though, because I do remember wondering why the lug was split, and If I remember right from 10 years ago, I welded up the valve stem hole and moved it. I think I was saving it for my spare. I will find out later today.
I have one of our local club members coming over this evening to give me a little guidance on this thing. As I mentioned, it runs nothing like my doodlebug does, and I think i have multiple issues I am unsure on which direction I should take to cure them.
Les, My fellow club member agreed, I think I have all of that going on with the noises. I am going to drop the pan and check the rods again and do the 1st and 2nd main this time around.
Other than being noisy and a little fine tuning, I was given a clean bill of health. I pointed out things I knew there were issues with and he agreed with all of them. But it is mostly stuff I can pick at here and there. Getting the engine quieter is the main order of business.
Allan, I checked the rims, none of them have the cutout like the Chevy rim. I have one square lugged Canadian rim on the right front, the rest have the rounded lug tabs.
My back two rims that have the rounded lug tabs, have the holes near the split for the Canadian rim spreader, but I think I drilled one of them that way so it would look like a Canadian rim. I am pretty sure the other one was stock. So maybe Canadian rims have both square and round lug tabs?
Chad, does the carburetor have the hot air pipe properly attached to it?
Last year, I started a rebuilt engine on a test stand and within five minutes, I started hearing a metalic knock.
The temperature was about 40 degrees and there was a heavy fog mist present.
The center of the carb already had ice and frost on it.
A heat gun soon melted the ice and the knock went away.
Adding the hot air pipe kept the engine running quietly, like a new engine should run.
Yes James, it has a pipe on it. I need them in this area,or else I get icing also.