I'm on my second switch...each went out soon after installation. Langs recommended this switch over the others they sell. So what switches are you guys having luck with? Or is this something wrong with my wiring? It's a 6 volt system.
Pictures? More information.
Buy one from Fun Projects .
I use Fun Projects in both my cars and recommend them.
I recommend the Fun Projects one as well. What do you mean by "went out"? Did they burn out, or just stop working?
Curious which switch your using, but the Fun Projects switch is reliable and works great. Lang's sells it as well as others which don't work nearly as well in my opinion.
The first one stopping working. Put a multimeter on it...dead. Haven't pulled the one on it now to check it, but it ain't working. I've never heard of Fun Projects....I'll google it.
Here it is: http://www.funprojects.com/products/bls-1.aspx
How have you got it wired?
Did it burn out?
Did it break?
Do you have power to it?
We have suggested a good switch to use but this will fail too if you have another problem not mentioned. Can you tell us more of what you have found.
What do you use for the actual light(s)?
There are two brake-light switches available of which I'm aware; one that clamps onto the starter's bendix cover, and the other which mounts at the back end of the transmission.
I've had experience with both types and the one that mounts to the bendix cover (pictured above) is a cheaply made, easy to install unit that will need constant adjustment and last a couple of years.
The other switch (pictured below) is one of John Regan's usual well thought out, excellent-quality, "Fun Projects" designs. _Three or four years ago, I bought one, installed it and adjusted it—once—and promptly forgot about it. _Works perfectly. _Lang's carries it on this web-page:
Allan, You still haven't answered or shown pics of the switch you currently have. I think we are all curious.
If it is like the first style Bob posted above (there is also a frame mounted version of this), they pretty much are garbage in my opinion.
If it is the second type shown below that mounts off the 4th main, and you are having issues, Please contact Fun Projects or John Reagan. His setup is basically fool proof and works extremely well.
I'll try and get out there tonight and take some pictures.
Allen, maybe a ground or other wiring issue? Do you have a 12v. battery and possibly using a 6 or 8 volt bulb? That'll blow 'em out quick. I too have the Fun Projects switch, as well as one of "the others" that came with the car, but like the FP switch best. You get what you pay for. Another reason I like the FP switch is, after some tweaking, you can get the brake light to come on with just a light tap of the pedal, to give the idiots behind you some fore-warning, without having to engage your brake band. It works great that way!
I use an original genuine Ford brake light switch. I would like to see SOMEONE rework the cheap ones so they will work.
I've reworked the clamp-on (cheap) style. I haven't seen one many years but it used nylon or soft plastic insulators at the connections. After a period of time, the plastic would compress and allow the contacts inside to rotate and not make contact with the plunger or short against the inside of the housing.
I replaced the soft insulators with hard fiber type and lined the inside of the housing, near the contacts, with fiber insulation sheet.
The one in Bob's lower picture is the better of the two. I have used both kinds. The clamp on bendix switch grounded out. Could start a fire if you don't have a fuse in the circuit.
When I installed the one in Bob's first photo, it just flashed the brake light, as the rod was pushed in.
It was repaired by removing one rivet and swinging the case around to bend the contacts inside to provide a contact for the full range of travel.
Then the rivet was replaced and it still works.
A friend had the small terminal nut loosen and let the bolt drop down to cause a fire, but a fuse saved his T.
I stopped using that one anyway and put a fuse in my brake light circuit for the third type not shown. That one has a modern micro switch and a bar across the transmission cover.
Fun Projects made the watertight fuse holder.
I also bought the new type switch, shown in the second photo, but I have not installed it yet.
Hey, the "Fun Projects" switch only costs something like
five bucks more than the overseas-made, Brand-X switch, so
deciding between the two is a classic no-brainer.
What actual brake light would you use with said switch? http://www.funprojects.com/products/bls-1.aspx
I just ordered one from Fun Projects this morning for my Centerdoor. I usually just use hand signals (even though most of the morons driving these days don't know what they mean) but just trying to get your arm out the window in that car requires movements that my joints are no longer capable of. I found a nice vintage stop light that I mounted on the spare tire mount and was considering which switch to buy when this thread appeared.
My question is why doesn't someone make the original style switch so that it works correctly. It amazes me that the vendors have been selling the original style switch knowing that it is unreliable. Either stop selling it or start making it better. I for one would gladly pay more for a switch that was correct and worked effectively and I have to believe there are plenty of others who feel the same way.
uh o maybe you should hook up all the wires
Ignacio, IF I have my head on square about tail lights, try these. :-)
I use a switch from an ironhead Harley. Had it on 3 years and never a problem.
Thanks for all the info folks! My pictures are dark and fuzzy and not sure they would help BUT, just to confirm, the entire frame is a ground if I'm not mistaken. So there is a hot into the switch, then out from the switch back to the light. The bolt that attaches the light to the tire carrier is the ground correct?
Yes, the frame is the ground. Sometimes there are electrical problems in restored cars since we paint them piece by piece - any paint (or rust) at the ground connections must be scraped off so the circuits are completed.
The top pic is an orig. style repop. Had one but no matter how tight i could get it all the oil from the engine on the Bendix cover made it loosen up. I have had no probe with the Fun Projects switch(second pic) .