First, I do not believe there is a 'disease' with the car.
The car is a newly restored 1912 touring with an early 1920 something engine, rebuilt by a reputable gentleman who repairs engines. Only modification is an E-Timer.
Symptom: It seems like the engine works to hard to go 20 - 30 mphish or more. It sounds like my 2005 Toyota Tacoma sound when it IS NOT pulling a trailer. Like the engine is more powerful than the car. But the faster I go the it sounds like the car will fall apart because it is such a hard sound. Yet, when I get to speed and back off on the gas a little, the engine smooth's out and quiets down.
Does this make sense?
No It doesn't make sense.
I'll re-read your post tonight - after a have a few glasses of wine.
It might help!
Thanks Fred, I'll have wine before my next drive and the sound won't bother me at all! lol
Maybe just the fact it's a rebuilt engine and need break in time, don't push it.
I thought of that Mark, thanks for the reinforcement.
Are the wood blocks & side bolts, located on alongside each motor mount arm, present?
Also, wondering if your high speed clutch is slipping until you back off at speed and it finally grabs.
Slipping clutch ? How does it pull in low or reverse ?
Is the timing correct? Sounds like it might be firing ATDC than BTDC as it should. And by the way, what does a Toyota Tacoma sound like?? I drive a Ford...its very quiet.
You don't say what gear your are in. The engine will run very fast with a slow speed of the car in low and the engine will run very slow and labor at too slow in high. You need to learn how fast to rev in low before shifting to high. When you do shift, back off the throttle until it goes into high and then give it more throttle until you get up to the desired speed.
If you are going uphill when you start out, you will need to run in low to a higher speed before you shift and then try to make the shift as quickly as you can so you don't lose speed. Some hills are so steep that you must continue in low. Don't go too fast in low up the hill.
Other things I can think of which would make noise while pulling would be loose main bearings or loose pistons, but a "reputable" rebuilder should have taken care of those possible problems in his rebuild.
If the engine tends to run rough like it is not running on all cylinders, you could have a valve problem, or an ignition problem.
Anyway, your engine could be acting normally, or have a problem. Try to find a local person who is familiar with T's and let him try it out and answer for you.
If what you are describing is that the engine rpms are too high for the speed you are going when in high gear until you back off on the throttle that sounds like the clutch is slipping. That may be from a weak clutch spring or the clutch finger screws need to be adjusted. If you ease into high gear with the throttle closed and then open the throttle very slowly to get up to speed do you have the same issue?
When that 1920 engine was made there were no roads that you could travel more than 20 mph on and few that would let you travel that fast.
With newer roads that will let you travel 65 or 70 mph on, your Model T is still limited to a safe 30 mph max.
When I first got my engine rebuilt, so it ran right, I drove to a show on a main highway. I could tell the car easily ran faster, but I did not know how fast. My wife was following in a modern car, with her 4-way flashes on. When we got to the show, I asked her how fast I was travelling, as I knew it was faster. She told me I was usually only doing 55 mph, but I got up to 65 down a few long hills. I also got trailered home after the show. Then I removed the engine to replace the center main bearing, after the engine noise had started to increase.
Thank you guys! I will read your response later. Unfortunately I will not be able to consider your thoughts until next week or later since life just went into high gear and I will be too busy to play with Chester the Awesome Model T!
Did you run the engine on the standard Ford ignition before using the E-Timer ??? How was the performance ??/
I would check the spark plug gap.... 0.025" works for me & the E-Timer.
Review the E-Timer installation instructions