So my '24 Touring needs a new rear tack strip (or tack rail). Mine is shot, and I would really like to be able to get a new top at some point in the future. My current tack strip offers very little to nail to anymore. I've had no luck in trying to obtain one so far.
So, I'm left with a few options...
One is to use that plastic tack strip that I used in a previous thread. However, for sake of originality, I would like to use wood. But it is an option.
Another is to make one myself. I've never steam bent wood before, but I've also never been one to back down from the opportunity to learn a new skill. If I go this route, what wood would be best? What did Ford use originally? Any general tips and advice for shaping and bending wood? I will have to bend new top bows at some point, so I'm interested in trying this.
The last option would be to have one made by someone who has done this before (and pay accordingly). Is there someone here who would be willing to make one? And if so, what would be the cost?
Jon Anderson makes them and they are quite reasonable.
Jack is correct. I got mine from Jon at Hershey. I don't remember the price, but it wasn't outrageously expensive.
Check this out.
On my 26 Fordor I got the oak from Home Depot. I put it in a length of pipe with caps on and filled it 1/2 with water. Make sure there is a steam hole. Then I made a bed of charcoal briquettes and cooked it for 4 hours. When it came out it was pliable and with a LOT of clamps it was easily bent around the back of the seat. You have about 15 minutes to get it in place before it cools too much to bend, so you need to work efficiently. So if you want an original tack strip, it can be done fairly easy.
on your 22-25 touring you will need a pice 1"x3" for tack strip good luck bending that. charley
Cameron, I had never steam bent timber before either, but I did the tack strips in my '26... I have the good fortune to have a brother -in law who is proficient in the skill and he offered me the tips, as well as providing me with the American Ash to use.
My steam chamber was a simple device. A length of steel Cattle yard rail about 10 ft long, to which I welded a plate at one end with a 3/4 inch hole drilled in it.. To the other end I attached a hinged flap to insert the timber into the tube . Set the whole thing up with a 6 inch slope and shoved the wand of my steam cleaner in to the hole at the top. The tube filled with steam and as it condensed it poured out the unsealed gap of the flap at the lower end. I had it so the water went back into the supply tank of the steam cleaner.( just need to keep the hot water away from the plastic float ... they go all funny shaped with hot water on them!!)
Before steaming , soak the timber in water for a day or so to saturate it.
I let it sit in the steam chamber for an hour and a half.
I then had about 4 minutes to get the bend in , so you need to have everything to hand and ready to use. Its hot so gloves are needed.
Plenty of clamps and let it sit for at least 24 hours to take the shape.
I released some clamps after this time, but I fixed the retaining bolts in before fully releasing all the clamps.