"Stupid is as stupid does sir!!" I was adjusting timer rod and it was twisted. I twisted to hard. Any way to repair this?
That's a Bakelite type material, phenolic plastic.
You could try crazy glue (cyanoacrylate), clean with alcohol the busted part area, let air dry, apply the crazy glue. Perhaps a stronger fix is to find tiny screws that you could place with drilled holes in each side of the U-shaped cracked parts, to act as internal splint to hold the glue bond.
It ran good at low speed but no top end. Even for a T it seemed it had more to give. I bent the rod so timing advanced more and it came to life. What a huge difference. Checked compression 1st. 45lbs on #1. 43lbs on #2. 42lbs on #3. And 45lbs on #4. All dry test on warm engine. I have my extra timer on now but need an extra.
Thanks Dan. Its such a good timer I hate to pitch it. Make a good spare if I can fix it. Wonder if gorilla glue will work?
It's a little trouble but I always take the rod completely off to bend it. In normal use there should not be a whole lot of stress there. May your you could build up on the sides some way as well as super glue.
John, I had it off about 5 times. I though just a little twist. I thought wrong. If glued and pinned may be good?
If it were mine I would consider gluing what's there with CA then make up a thin metal doubler for the front and/or back that I would probably attach with JB Weld.
I also thought about drilling a hole across the width of the arm under the timing rod hole so that the repair could be wrapped with a strong thread but I worried about the wisdom of adding holes to fix a broken part.
DO NOT use gorilla glue, as it expands as it cures. A CA glue would be best. Once glued, you could put a strap of metal (shim stock, tin can, etc. around the outside of the "finger" and pin the ends of it with TINY screws, like #2s. Just an insurance policy to keep the halves together.
Or you could drill through the arm and twitch wire around it. A small grove could be filed to keep it located and epoxy glue used to fill any void in the hole.
Allan from down under.
Why not take a couple washers grind them to fit the shape dremel out the space needed then fill with jb weld and let set?
JB weld again. I would grind it back like you were going to weld it. JB weld works better with some thickness. You could also over build it some, a little extra won't hurt anything. JB weld is very fluid when mixed, create a form protected with something like wax paper. You can then grind,file,drill, machine after it is fully cured.
I think I'd consider making two tiny little dowels that would go into holes that you drill in the mating surfaces.
You could make the dowels out of metal or plastic.
Then when you glue it, the dowels would give it extra strength.
I'm with Don on this one with the drilling and doweling of the broken piece. Use a CA type glue on it, Zap-a-Gap is a good one if you have a Hobby store near by that deals with RC cars / airplanes. That should make it almost as good as new.
Just an idea, but you might take two thin washers with big enough holes for the rod to pass through, fit the timer pieces back together, fill the hole in the timer with JB and sandwich the washers , one on each side, glue everything together and then re drill your hole for the rod. The washers will add substantial strength to your repair.
I was thinking something similar to Steve A's. repair. JB Weld works pretty well for these type of repairs.
When getting the timer rod set on my 21 Touring I had to remember not to bend it with the it rod in the New Day timer hole.
I'll be willing to bet this isn't the first time this has happened.
Get a new one. Can't risk it busting again out on the road 20 miles from home with no spare.
Dallas, I would try to repair it myself using some of the methods mentioned above, but I wouldn't use it for a spare. I would use it first and have a good one as a spare, that way if it fails, you won't be walking. If you used it as a spare and it fails, you'll be walking for sure. JMHO Dave
Well ,we will see how it holds up.no stress on this should work. Groove cut with dremell tool.
I know I could find another but what fun would that be? A little cleanup and will try it out.