While taking off the threaded yoke and nut on the end of one of my brake rods, it snapped off. Saved the threads on the yoke and a few threads remain, we looked into getting a bolt with the same threads and welding it on, but all the bolts we can find do not have 2" of thread on them, they all get shouldered. Do we weld on straight rod and tap? Do we weld on further down the rod and tap the end for strength.
Die, not tap, but you get the drift.
How have you guys done this repair in the past?
I'll hang up and listen.
Replace the broken rod and the yoke. Corrosion in the threads has caused this and a repair would only be as good as what you have now- parts that might fail. Best of luck, Gary
Try looking for a long carriage bolt, all the ones I've seen are threaded the whole length. I believe that Steve Jelf welded a bolt onto his rods to get some extra length.
Since it is a brake rod, I would have a professional welder weld on a new section of rod. I don't like welds in such critical areas, but a pro should be able to do a reliable job. I believe the threads were originally rolled, so you might want to use a rod slightly larger in diameter so you have full threads on it.
A rolled thread is far better than a die cut thread.
I weld rods quite often for tractors and machinery. Vee both ends and weld, using a quality bolt is probably better than all thread.
Robert I agree with John if you make a v Chanel to fill with weld it will hold if you need more threads just use a piece of rod the same diameter and thread it just make sure you end up with the correct length when it's done.
Just my two cents Jim
Send your mailing address if these would help you out.
5/16 - 24 thread rolled onto cold-rolled rod.
The brake rods are fine thread. Most hardware shop bolts with the long thread are coarse thread and of dubious quality. JD's offer is the way to go.
Allan from down under.
J.D., PM sent. Thank you for the kind offer. I'll make sure you get taken care of.
JD, those look great!
So, on the weld, when you refer to a V notch, I had some frame horns welded into my WWII jeep frame and the welder put a male end on the short piece and a female notch in the long frame piece and put the two together and welded away. No need for a backing piece. I think he called it a pigeions notch or pigeons beak or something.
Do I do the same with this piece? Notch a V in one side and a point in the other and insert the pint into the V? Or notch both ends into a V and use weld to build up to the diameter of the rod?
We'll make some sort of jig to hold both pieces in alignment, spot weld it to tack in place and then weld away and grind smooth.
I'll try to post a before and after photo for future generations.
Thanks to all.
How about a Threaded Rod Coupler connection to extend length?
Picture of example.
JD, got the repair ends today in the mail. Outstanding. We'll get the brake rod cut of and pointed to match and do the weld over the weekend and post a photo.
Thank you for doing this. I'm thinking of cutting off the other rod end and doing the same as they are both the same age and the threads have to be in the same condition. This would give me new threads on both rods.
Flat chamfers on both rods allows for a better weld since the weld penetration is more uniform. Also it's easier to weld. I clamp the rods in a piece of angle iron to locate them.
Gary W., I have never been able to find threaded rod connectors with fine thread, although I haven't looked for several years. Doesn't make sense as fine threaded rods are available. They could be very handy. Dave
Welded on one tip that JD sent and we installed new linings and we now have, for the first time, working parking brakes.
Thanks to all on this and the lining rivet tool thread.
We can now start and stop our car on a hill and not worry about rolling or getting out and chocking. I see a parade in our future