Replace an Inner Bearing?

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Replace an Inner Bearing?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Sommers on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 11:56 am:

The front wheel spokes and felloe were creaking and loose. I decided to have Noah Stutzman perform his magic. When I took off the wheels I noticed that the passenger side wheel had roller bearings in both the inner and outside. However, the drivers side had roller bearings on the outside, but the inner bearing was a ball bearing. I read some previous posts that removing the bearing cup was very difficult. Does it make sense to bite the bullet and replace the ball bearing (it appears to be in good shape), or should I just leave it alone?
Thanks
Mike Sommers


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 11:59 am:

I would leave it alone as long as it's in good condition.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 12:24 pm:

Like Jerry, I wouldn't mess with it if there's nothing wrong with it. However, if you decide you want to, they're really not that hard to remove if you have a welder. Weld a bead part way around the race where the ball rolls. When it cools, it will shrink the race and will probably fall out with no additional encouragement.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 12:35 pm:

What Jerry said. I assume this is for your 1913. Actually, the roller bearing cups are easy to remove, if the need should ever arise. It's removing the Timken cups that's a problem with the early hubs, which have no removal notch. Presumably a Timken cup would be removed because it needs to be replaced, so welding a bead around its inside to loosen it is no problem.

When I had Stutzman wheels made for my 1915 I cheated and used 1917-1918 hubs because they have the speedometer flange and holes, but are beefier than the earlier hubs. That allowed me to add cup-removal notches with a grinder. Only a real Model T expert would notice that my front wheels have the "wrong" hubs.

If you do ever have to replace the ball bearings, Timkens may be your only choice, as some of the ball bearing parts are now made of unobtainium.





Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 12:44 pm:

Ball bearing cups are easily reached with a drift to knock them out. No welding needed.


They're huge compared to Timken cups. An easy target.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 04:50 pm:

I stand corrected. It's been a while since I had to do that. Must have been a Timken I did that on. I do still have ball bearings on one side of her Touring. Thanks for the correction, Steve.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:49 pm:

I learned something new today. :-)
I saw Steve's post and toddled out to the shed to check. Sure as grass is green! Speedo flanges and holes on the hubs.
How on Earth have the correct hubs stayed with my '18?
Thanks guys!
I gotta go out in the woods and look at my junk now.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Sommers on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 06:13 pm:

All,
Thanks for your guidance.

Duey,
I am confused. I have heard about women with "junk in their trunk", but I have never heard about a guy going off to the woods to look at his junk...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 08:00 pm:

Err, umm, ahh, my Model T junk? I did not see that coming at all... Should've. :-) Open mouth, insert pervy foot. :-)

Eh Hem. I still didn't find the one speedometer drive gear I have and I don't think it'd fit the hub on the '18.
Some of the folks here do claim many thousands of miles on the ball bearings in the front wheels.

Oof. ;-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nevada Bob Middleton on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 11:31 pm:

Timken bearings are fare superior but if the ball bears will work just fine
Like other said if it works and works well leave them as is


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 03:08 am:

Bearing races will come out very easily if heated red hot for a short distance and let cool. Works the same way as welding on them. That may be a bit easier for a novice that isn't real sure about his welding skills. :-) Dave


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration