I've got a 26 touring. Motor and transmission are both fresh overhauls. Ever since I bought it it has overheated no matter how I drove. Tore it down and found water jackets full of rust. It then got a complete overhaul and cleaning along with the tranny. Now that it's back together it still does it. Not as bad though. It dosent boil over and steam now. It just gurgles and churns after you shut it off. I've got the timing pretty close as far as adjustment on the rod. I've drove it all the way advanced and half way. Both in high gear on pavement. Radiatior is original but clean and not clogged. Mixture is right where it likes it. 1/2 turn either way and it runs rough. Plus it smells a little rich to me. I've been through the books and I'm at my whits end trying to figure out this rolling churning gurgling water Delema. Any tips would be welcomed with open arms.
I don't waste my time with 90+ year old radiators, they may look clean but it's the fins that no longer have good contact to the tubes for heat transfer.
Buy a new one, problem solved.
If it is OK now when you are driving it, that is correct. they all gurgle and churn when you shut them down. The fan is off, the engine is hot, so you are still heating up the water in the water jackets. That is why you still hear the water boiling as it slowly cools off. the beauty of the thermosyphon cooling system.
A little gurgling for a minute after you shut it off isn't boiling. A real boil, with steam coming out, is another story. Here's a page on the subject: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html.
As I've posted more than once, I also agree with Frank. New radiator. Did you do a "flow test"? A good radiator will void it's water when full, in four seconds. Not talking through the little petcock in the bottom. You have to pretty much remove the radiator, put a plug on the top & bottom pipe fittings, fill 'er up, then pop the bottom plug off and start counting. It goes quick, if it's all clear. Anything much over 8 seconds, then frankly the radiator is pretty well plugged up. Been there. As Frank said, no doubt many fins aren't making contact either. Buy a new one. And get a flat tube while you're at it.
I had the exact same issue on my 26T. I re-did the radiator twice and still had the problem. What I found was the bushing in the fan housing was made from the wrong material and after about 10-15 minutes of driving the fan would slow to about a 1/4 speed. I tightened the fan belt but that slowed it even more. Long story short I replaced the bushing with the correct one and now the engine never comes close to overheating. I chased this problem for two years before I figured it out.
That's odd, Randy - are you driving a lot in parades or any other very slow driving?
For most T's, the fan isn't needed over 5mph and I've driving all three seasons without fan on my primitive pickup - with an old original radiator.
It has only boiled once when I was stuck in traffic for a few minutes - had to roll to the side and let it cool for a few minutes more until the traffic cleared. Not many traffic congestions here - standing still a minute or so by a traffic light is OK.
You can find original radiators at swap meets that look good and usable. They go for around 150-250.00 or so.
For the most part they look good but DONT COOL or if they seem to its because you have to run the radiator a little low on water to prevent boil over.
After 90 years or so they do wear out. No kidding.
That's why the are usually for sale.
Get a radiator recored or buy a new one. And a flat tube while your at it.
Probably been said already up above, but I don't have time to read through it all.
Your fresh motor will run a little hot anyway, just because everything is new & tight. Run it a while and give it a chance to get better. If it doesn't, buy a new radiator.
After a fresh rebuild, my engine ran warm for about 60 miles. Then one day I was driving down the road watching the motometer, and it broke in. The temp dropped, engine smoothed out some, and has been running great...and cool ever since.
Aaron, if you have the radiator off the car, turn it upside down. Listen for rattle. If you have that it is the baffle in the top tank that has broken loose and is sitting on the core. This has happen to me when the radiator was reworked and cleaned. Just a maybe!!
I wrote an article for the Vintage Ford, July-August
2013 on some overlooked causes of overheating. It is to long to post here. One problem I ran into with one engine was rust in the water jacket eating away enough metal along with a large overbore affecting heat transfer. A new radiator did not cure it. My 13 and 25 coupe still have the original radiator and cool just fine. My 20 did also but developed to many leaks so I replaced it. When I replaced the original in my 14 with a bergs (I think it was the last brass he made) flat tube there was only a difference of eight degrees. At the price of a new radiator it may be worth checking everything else possible first.
I love my water pump......
Boy Jerry...that's playing with fire on the this forum...
A lot of very good advice in this thread. Dan K makes a good suggestion to check everything possible. I do believe it would be helpful to check what the temperature really is. This is a temperature run I made with the car parked in the driveway with the engine running for an hour.
Get one of these out of the kitchen and set it in the radiator,
It's a little hard to see but gauge is just sitting in top of the radiator,
Let the engine warm up and set mixture and spark,
Check your temp.
It's fogged a little but the gauge is a little over 190 degrees after 45 minutes. This car does not boil even when pulling considerable grades in the Texas Hill Country.
I'm running a Kingston 4-ball on a stock engine,
If clean and set correctly, the cooling system works well as designed with a good radiator.
Ken in Texas
.."Come Tour the Texas T Party this Fall in Kerrville, Texas".. There will be some Low-pedal on that tour and in a very scenic part of Texas!!