I've searched the forums and web looking for a step by step instruction for doing this and found none. I'd like to document my efforts and post such a tutorial. Having said that, I want to make sure I'm doing it correct.
Got the linings, rivets and tool set from Lang's, but no instructions. A set of 4 different setting punches and the drill bit for counter sinking the rivet heads.
Has anyone used the tool and can shed some light on the process?
I'm presuming the short flat base of the tool goes against the formed head of the rivet in the recessed hole drilled in the lining on the face of the shoe. On the rear of the shoe, one of the four bits, and I presume again the slightly rounded over bit is used with a hammer to strike the tube portion of the rivet into a spread head surface.
The other bits are flat, concave and stepped. So maybe a series of bits to get the rivet started and then finished?
I'm sure it's all common sense, but it would be nice to have one post or thread that documents the process from shart to finish and I'd like to provide that.
Thanks in advance.
Robert, here is a utube video from a fellow that has made quite a few good ones about his model T.
Hope it helps.
The Improved Car emergency brake linings are pretty easy to do, a punch to form the hollow rivet head under the brake band, and a counter sink drill to make the recess in the lining for the rivet. Be sure to wear gloves, the lining has sharp brass wires embedded for wear resistance and braking.
Mark lining where to drill countersinks with marker.
Drill pilot holes w/countersink wood bit.
Complete countersink on outside face of lining
Rivet end of hollow rivet with suitable tool.
Dan, thanks--with you photo guide it should go very well.
I use a drill press for the counter-sinking on the linings so I don't go too deep. Don't ask how I came about that habit!
I have the lining and rivets to do the job on my '21 soon. One thing I have been told and I believe to be good advice is not to use a tapered countersink for the holes in the lining. The rivets must pull up tight and not split the lining like a wedge. I have sandblasted the shoes and plan to glue the linings on with JB Weld and rivet them.
Tommy's right about the flat bottomed countersink. Below is a photo of the standard countersink bits from a Barrett brake riveter, which is really just a countersink sleeve with a drill bit in the center:
Brake lining rivet tool sets show up on Ebay frequently, that's where I got mine. Here is a current example - mine is painted yellow, but is otherwise identical:
I've got the tool set. I've got the correct counter sink bit. I've got the correct rivets. I've got the correct linings. I've got the correct brake shoes.
My question, which no one has answered, is this:
In the rivet tool set are 4 rivet setting punches of different shape and design. WHICH ONE DO I wATCHING VIDEOS AND LOOKING AT PHOTOS OF GUYS USING THEIR OWN HOME MADE TOOLS DOESN'T ADDRESS MY ISSUE.USE?
I WILL CALL lANGS. again.
tHANKS TO ALL.
The counter sunk part of the hole does not need to be tapered. Look at your 4/4 or 4/5 rivets, you will see that the hole does not go all the way to the head. The bottom of the counter sink needs to be just less then the the depth of that hole when the rivet is put when installed before riveting. In other words, when the rivet is installed, the bottom of the hole should be just below the outside surface of the band or shoe so the riveting action will put the rivet tight.
BIGGEST PROBLEM WE DON'T ALL HAVE THE SAME TOOLS AND MAY NOT KNOW FROM YOUR DESCRIPTION WHICH OF THE BITS AND PIECES YOU HAVE..POST A PHOTO!
You use the stepped counter sink drill to make the holes, you then pick the size of anvil, that fits into the counter sunk hole, install a rivet, set the counter sunk hole with rivet over the anvil part, the rivet setting part is the one with the one with the small tit in the middle. Bring it down into contact with the end of the rivet with the open end. Hit with hammer.
I'm sorry that you find our responses so deficient, Robert. We beg for your forgiveness.
As with Mark, guess I too don't have the answers for Lang's tool. The Lang's catalog page and web shows the rivet setting frame, a punch, and a drill point for countersink. Maybe the other punches round out this mfg. rivet set for other uses. Lang's isn't the maker of that rivet press.
Most of these frames are used by saddle and harness guys too, these can be found on the internet.
And found pic of a wood bit I re-worked for making a flat counter sink too, used this for wood linings on bands. The rivets were Pop Rivets.