Installed some new bolts since I had the brake drum off and really cranked them down. After I painted the wheel I noticed the front flange wasn't flat anymore. It is drawn in at the points where the bolts went. Ooops.
Mark you may have also had some of the old (modern) made hub bolts. There was a run of them a few years back that had issues with stripping out the threads.
Threads were fine ... these actually are the new bolts from Langs. This was not the fault of the bolts ... it was me with a long handled socket wrench. I screwed up. I don't think there is a safety issue just looks odd now that it's freshly painted. Went over it with 6x steel wool to knock off the shine and it looks better.
Don't feel bad, I did the same on my new wheels:
I was going to comment on this thread but I think id be off the Mark
Mark, what kind of wood are those spokes made of. I like to see the grain run the length of the spoke, not around them. Are they Hickory?
They are hickory spokes from Lang's:
Welcome to the club. An awful lot of folks do that on their first job. Are you even sure they were flat to start? I've never seen flat plates and always have to straighten them prior to rebuilding the wheels.
I snug them down...wait 3-4 days for the wood to compress and resnug to the same amount...then peen
I know alot of people scoff at the idea, but I use a torque wrench on alot of model T items. I like the idea of knowing it is tight and if multiple bolts (wheel hub, timing cover, main bolts, rod bolts, etc)that they are all drawn down even. It can prevent what happened above and prevent bolt breakage from over tightening. I know there are no published torque values, but it's not hard to come up with something.
Just saying, it works for me, your mileage may vary.
I have some other plates. Guess I'll switch it out with a flat one and go with a lighter touch next time. It was only one wheel.
Mark Strange, your wheels look fantastic, wonderful workmanship!
The plates aren't hardened. You can get them pretty flat in a shop press.
Good to know Mark. They sure are pretty!
Hal, a couple of the spokes show fiddleback grain in the spokes. This is a highly desirous pattern in timbers for decorative work. It does not have an effect on the strength and serviceability of the timber.
Mark, your wheels look to be Kelsey loose lug types. Our Canadian sourced wheels come with lug nuts which have an inbuilt flat washer looking land on the back. Are yours just plain nuts? Snyders now have the correct nuts available if you need them.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
These are the lug nuts on my wheels, the washer surface is part of the nut:
I built these wheels shortly after I got Betsy because she had a couple of slightly loose spokes. Once the wheels were built, I figured I had nothing to lose by trying to shim the few loose spokes on my current Hayes wheels. So, I bought a spoke jack and some shims on Ebay.
The shimmed wheels are still tight and giving good service after four years, so I'm still running them. The new wheels are in storage in the basement for the time when the shimmed wheels give out.
(Message edited by cudaman on April 15, 2017)
They're the ones for looselugs Mark. I couldn't make them out in your photos.I bought a set for my 1917 shooting brake that has demountable wheels. Being totally machined, they were too perfect. I scrounged around for a set of originals and had them re-plated. These appear to be forged, and consequently each is a little different and more rustic looking. They look more in keeping with the used clamps and replated rims I used.
Allan from down under.