I've had an annoying oil leak from the front of my '24 Speedster engine for the past year. Close examination did not reveal the source but I was pretty sure the front main was not the culprit as I had installed an external seal several years ago.
Strangely, the leak only (and always) occurred about 20 minutes after shutting off the engine but never immediately. And it was too big to live with any longer, typically creating a hand-sized puddle under the pan nose.
Any guesses what was the source? I'll post photos of the fix tomorrow.
If equipped with outside mag type oiler, perhaps the hollow bolt wasn't fully sealing.
Maybe when running hot the bolt sealed, when stopped and cooled down, the hollow bolt let oil that was still in the outside tube escape and drip down under the pan nose.
Thanks Dan, I was wondering if my T was the only one that leaked oil.
However, my former pesky leak had nothing to do with an outside oiler.
In order to find the leak I gave the whole area a thorough spraying with Brake Kleen to clean all the residual oil off the surfaces, then took the car for a half hour drive. Sure enough, 20 minutes later there was a puddle forming under the pan nose.
I drained and removed the radiator and crank pulley, expecting to find a failed external crankshaft seal.
Not so — instead the brazed joint between the pan and front block mount (into which the front cover is bolted) was dripping wet.
Repeated wiping and spraying finally cleaned enough oil out of the cracks that they stayed dry. I then scraped and power brushed the bulk of the paint out of the area to expose a fair bit of bare metal. Arrows point to where the oil had been seeping out.
Applied then smeared a bead of Right Stuff ("Miracle in a Tube" if you ask me) into the joint and let it cure overnight.
Next day I squeezed a larger bead around the semicircle, smearing it over a wider area, and put the car back together. Went on a long drive the next day and the pan nose stayed dry as a bone. Success!
Got to love modern technology. Amazing what a little sealer, JB weld or lock-tight will do.
thanks, Chris.one more place to check for leaks, though with my T's, I don't know which leak to tackle first. :-)
Ya Chris, you and I plus more and more are finding out how great the Permatex products are. I am a great promoter of the Ultra Black also having used it for many many other things than for gaskets. I believe the Flex Seal on TV is a knock off.
Some other uses I have found that work well are:
Adhesive for the Oil seal at the crankshaft.
Repair of a freeze crack on the T block.
Repair of a tear on the top material.
Repair of leather seat in SUV
Repair of leaking brass radiator tank on T.
Of course leak proofing fittings on T and modern.
Try it You'll Like It!
That was fun and informative even tho I had no guesses yesterday!
It is neat how something so seemingly simple can hold back oils and what-not.
20 years ago, I slathered acrylic latex caulk on the semi cleaned pan (around the rear hangers) of my Crappy T. Still holding.
Whatever I had on hand fixed the radiator tank leaks a couple months later. :-)
Flushed with success on taming the Speedster leak I tackled a similar problem with my '26 Touring. This car also gradually developed a puddle under the pan nose after shutting off warm, although there was not a time delay like with the other car.
Once again, I sprayed copious Brake Kleen around the front main area to remove all accumulated leakage then went driving for a few miles.
Upon removal of the radiator and front pulley, three leakage areas were indicated and the front main was oil-tight:
Further spraying and wiping left no doubt from where the oil was escaping:
The pinholes at the bottom of the nose were hardest to make clean and dry — oil continued to seep out until I lifted the front of the car to drain oil away from the area:
After a final cleaning, two applications of Right Stuff "sealed the deal" and I put everything back together. Had a good long run this morning and there was NO afterleak. Yahoo!
So, one more thing to do to your oil pan when rebuilding the engine--re-solder the front pan wall to the pan--probably best done after straightening the pan!
A great and educational story. Thanks for posting it!
There's one thing I don't understand. Why the 20 minute delay between shutting it off and the leak? In my mind, I would think (obviously in error) that if there's a path for the oil to escape it would be most evident while the engine is running, not 20 minutes later.
Hey Chris, I hope you glued on a modern seal while you were there and had everything all cleaned up.
Glad to know about the Brake Kleen, I usually use Naptha but the spray would be much easier to use.
Thanks for posting!!
I think every pan I've had off and straightened had a loose solder joint at the front dam. I always re solder after pan is straightened. KGB