Hi, I am trying to tighten the front drivers spindle nut but when I tighten the spindle nut the washer and front threaded Timken outer bearing turn. Do I have to get a cone wrench like 1 1/16 inch to hold the outer bearing so that the nut tightens without turning? Is there another way without a special tool? I have the hubcap wrench https://www.modeltford.com/i/c/72l.jpg but the outer bearing hole won't seem to fit over the larger OD washer when it is time to take the tool off.
Do you have the a tabbed spindle washer between the nut and bearings or is the tab missing? If not it's needed.
You set the inner bearing, slide on the tabbed washer, then the outer nut/cotter pin.
The second of two new tabbed spindle washer was placed in the keyway (tabway?). Tightening the spindle nut sheared off the tab easily. The first one sheared off as well.
I placed the bearing as well as I could. Tightened the spindle nut and have cottered it. I hope the rotation of the wheel will spin the outer bearing tighter against the nut. I don't have a 1 inch 1/16th cone wrench.
Gotta have the tabbed washers. Where did yours come from?
Ignatio, something is amiss. To shear the tab of the washer requires it to be forcibly rotated on the spindle, and I can think of no way that can happen. If the cone nut pushes the washer to the end of the slot, that may shear it off. BUT, for that to happen the cone would have to be wound further in than is usually the case.
Is this on the wheel which you had trouble with the dust seal and possibly the wrong bearing? If this allows the hub to go further onto the spindle, your spindle nut may get to the end of the thread. You really need to get on top of this, as safety is paramount. Front wheel bearings are not something you drive on a wing and a prayer.
Allan from down under.
Good advice by Allan. Bump to the top.
If this is happening only on one side, carefully compare everything on the problematic side to what you have on the good side. Whatever is different, fix that.
The Ford hub cap tool is the wrench to use. Some versions have two tangs that really help to turn the threaded bearing cone in place. Normally you tighten a tad loose, then the washer and castle nut will apply the final, you have to test it a time or two. The castle nut needs to be snug and cotter in place, then test the wheel revolutions for no stiff drag.
The outside nut doesn't need to be very tight, like about as tight as you could get it with pliers, or the tin hub wrench in the picture.Dave in Bellingham,WA