1911 Speedometer flex shaft rebuilt !

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: 1911 Speedometer flex shaft rebuilt !
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Sunday, April 16, 2017 - 02:58 pm:

In my speedometer stuff I had a non-Stewart Speedometer brass flex shaft that had one broken end, and a badly damaged area, but a usable 48" section in between. It was so dirty and tarnished, at first I didn't realize it was brass. A bath in vinegar, an old toothbrush, and some elbow grease took care of that.



After searching high and low, I finally broke down and bought some reproduction speedometer cable ends from Langs. Of course they are designed to look like the later ends, but a little lathe work took care of that. Here is one as purchased, along with how I modified one, and an original knurled nut used as a pattern to duplicate the look for the 1911 nut.



I cut the end off of the flex shaft at the bad spot.



The flex shaft had a larger outside diameter than the inside diameter of the ends. The ends have to slip over the outside of the flex shaft, so I took a little off the inside of the ends.



I could not take off too much, or the wall would be too thin, so I had to turn down some of the outside of the flex shaft, too. I chucked it up in the lathe, and ran the flex shaft out through a piece of pvc pipe to keep the end under control.

Oops! Make sure you are going the right dissection...



There is a brass outside winding and steel inside winding. Notice the string that is between the brass and steel, maybe like water pump packing so the grease doesn't leak out.

Fortunately, that was a test piece! After running it with the grain, I was able to turn down the end of the flex shaft just enough to slip the knurled nut end on.



Then it was just a matter of soldering the pieces together. A little bit of solder paste, heat it up with a torch and it sucks the solder in just like sweating together copper water pipes.

I am happy with the end result. The knurled nuts are used on both ends up to about 1912 or so.



The reproduction ends are designed to be used with the modern cable on the inside.

: ^ )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Walter Higgins on Sunday, April 16, 2017 - 04:06 pm:

Well done! I've been putting off a similar job so now I'm glad I waited!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kim Dobbins on Sunday, April 16, 2017 - 05:03 pm:

Good job Keith, it's hard to find 48" of good brass cable.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Monday, April 17, 2017 - 12:48 am:

Update!!!

I had an A-ha! moment this afternoon.

The repro ends do not have a shoulder for the clutch assemblies to ride against. Here is a cutaway diagram of the cable. You can see where the upper and lower clutch assemblies have a bushing they ride against.



So I made a couple of bushings to slide in the ends. I measured an original cable and the inside diameter was 13/32" the inside of the repro end is 1/2", and the shoulder of the bushing is 0.400" from the ends. So back to the lathe...



And turned out a pair of bushings, 1/2" od, 13/32" id, 1.10" long.



Here is an end without the bushing:



Here is one with the bushing in place, 0.400" from the end.



And here is the head end with the drive seated on the bushing.



Success! With original chain links! Now all I need to do is grease it all up...

...and cancel my order from Lang's for the cable drive kit!

: ^ )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By stuart clipson on Monday, April 17, 2017 - 07:48 am:

keith

well done...i'm still looking for 48" of orig cable that i need to complete my cable.


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