I just found out some very valuable info from a very reliable source.
1- You need to know more info to buy a modern pinion adapter than the parts suppliers ask.
2-There are some new driveshafts available that SHOULD NOT be used.
3-There are NO new u-joints that are useable.
I have a NEW joint and a NEW driveshaft that came with my car.
It seems that the junk new parts are coming from ONE source. I wonder how much grief and even how many accidents have been caused by this guy's
crap. I have not bought anything from the source and I plan to destroy his/their catalog tonight when I get home.
Rebuilding a original U-joint is not that difficult. The two ring parts are VERY hard and do not seem to wear. The two "crosses " wear, BUT fortunately have centers in the appropriate locations to allow them to be welded up and remachined. Then a simple job of riveting it back together. Use rivets, bolts will not likely hold reliably!!
Tommy all of the reproduction parts that are available aren't junk like some would have you believe. Just because a few aren't up to the standard like some think they should be, these same folks seem to think they are all junk.
I learned long ago not to believe everything some folks say.
I bought a new repro u-joint from Langs 3 year ago. Its been no problem so far. What do you mean by saying its junk ?
Tommy I think I know who you are referring to. What surprises me is how certain parts makers will double down insisting their parts meet Ford specs when they clearly do not and statistically can not, based on the raw material they are using.
When I made this discovery after doing my homework and presented my findings to this forum, I was ridiculed for my revelation. I then received an email from the reliable source confirming everything I had discovered.
There are sacred cows in every organization who cannot be criticized.
Trust your instincts.
Turns out my new driveshaft appears to be a Genuine Ford part. The area where the sleeve presses on measures 1.005-1.006. The center section , between the two machined areas are considerably bigger. I understand that indicates an original one.
My u-joint has Ford script on all the parts. It has 4 snap rings on the end of the trunnions. Anybody seen one with snap rings?
"There are some new driveshafts available that SHOULD NOT be used."
I believe that's why John Regan is now making correct ones.
Maybe I have a good shaft and joint because the previous owner had been buying parts since 1969.
The snap rings indicate to me that the u-joint was rebuilt by adding needle bearings. From my direct observation, these do NOT work. Too much material needs to be removed in order for the joint to accept the needle bearing cups and the end result is a weakened u-joint. Again, this is my observation of an actual failed joint. If someone else is able to do this modification in some other way, that I have not yet seen, then perhaps it's o.k. I would be skeptical however. Can you post a photo?
I am trying to post pics without linking to Photobucket, but have not been able to yet. Is/was rebuilding u-joints using needle bearings a common practice ?
No, I don't believe it's a common practice. Especially since good used ones, and even the new reproductions, last so long.
Tommy, are you using your phone for pics? Perhaps you can fiddle with the settings to get the pic small enough. Our phones generally take HUGE photo's. :-(
My Galaxy S5 in simple mode won't allow me to fiddle with anything so I just use my old Olympus digital for here. 640 X 480 at 60 Kb's but we are allowed up to 250 Kb's. :-)
Now if I didn't wiggle so bad...
Question if I may? What info should we know about the modern pinion adapter? I just bought one last month so you have me wondering... :-)
Oh! Now I remember. Please be certain your axle housings are as straight as possible. The housings that were under my Runabout are bent all to heck and that slowed me down. :-)
When I called the manufacturer/modifier to order the converted spool, because the two parts suppliers that I trust didn't have it, he ask some questions. I told him my car is a '21 and the spool is an open one. He said he really needs to see a photo of the diff housing. Apparently some housings have a "step" machined into them for centering the spool and others do not. I thought the open or closed design was all I needed to know. Actually '21 being a transition year might complicate things?
Aha. IF your car has the original axle, one could assume you would have the open spool rear axle. I just deleted a wall of text that babbles about axles. You're prob'ly well up to speed on this stuff tho.
Let's try a couple of pics IF need be.
Note the step and the studs. This is closed spool country.
Here's an open spool axle with the correct spool. No room for a step as the spool is flat as aboard at the mating surface as are the axle housings.
Note a slight angle cut on the axle housings but no step.
Here's an open spool drive shaft housing. Flat as a board. Spool looks the same on the axle housing end. Flat as a board.
Aww darn it. I hit the wrong button and posted but I'm not going to edit my post this time.
Is this is of any help? If you need more just holler.
I ain't no expert and willingly call myself a junktard mechanic but I'll help best I can without judgement if you wish.
It sure IS an education ain't it? :-)
An "inside" view of my diff housing and driveshaft housing prior to a thorough cleaning. Testing different method of posting pics.
Sorry, that didn't work either. Not only has this thing been a p.i.t.a. to work on but unable to post pics.
Better to post photos here and avoid the spam.
p.i.t.a. to work on? Uh huh!
I'm FINALLY down to sizing the RH bronze thruster on mine.
Open spool axle as far as I'm concerned. :-) Parts mated up correctly as far as I can see. :-)
Thank you Steve for posting Tommy's pic!
Don't beat yourself up for photo problems.
Another of tommy's pics.
Open spool with bronze thrust washers. Yes Tommy?
How much differential end play?
Another notion if you wish for one.
I used a 3/8-16 (coarse) tap on my axle housings today in the 13/32-16 threaded holes in the housings and "wiggled it around" to clean up the threads a bit. Yours look rusty as heck.
I see a carrier bolt/nut in your photo. If a set of 3 bolts, be sure to cotter them. :-) If they're studs, wire them together. :-)
(Message edited by Duey_C on April 24, 2017)
The "together" pic was taken after I disassembled, replaced the thrust washers, put on a much better ring gear, and trial fitted it back together. And, I know you've heard it before, but the parts don't look near as rusty in real life as they do in the pics. With it back together as it is in the pic I can detect no side play in the ring gear and feel some resistance turning the ring gear with my fingers. I will be taking it back apart to safety wire the ring gear bolts and have another look inside before final assembly. Thanks all.
Anyone ever heard of the Ford Service Book?
I have a couple of NOS driveshafts, and the Ford script is stamped on the flat where the U-joint slips on. Another good check is to check the drive shaft for run out. After years of sitting around they can and do get bent.
My driveshaft has the Ford stamp on one of the flats.